Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

Do I have to read all that ^?!

[I haven't yet]

Copper coated wire wheels like this selection pack is the dog's danglies for cleaning it up (and alu)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/395359981078 ... R4qJl4LOZA

Not as harsh as the ordinary wire wheels. I actually used Hammerite (smooth) as it rust prevents and with the right prep, actually looks pretty good (for something that you don't see that often).

I used to use Hammerite over the years but found it quite brittle. I moved to Rustoleum which I find much better. If left for a week you can actually cut it back for a perfect finish.

No you don't have to read it so here a condensed version:


Started cleaning the rust off on Saturday. Finished doing that today. Painting going to have to wait for another day.


I have most of those brass brushes and they worked OK on getting the light stuff off and on the ally. Not so good on the stubborn rust.

I've given up on Hammerite and now use Frosts chassis black almost exclusively.

I've used Rustoleum in restoring a Wilton vice. I may have not prepared the surface properly perhaps as it seems to chip quite easily. Ill refinish the vice again once Im done with the car and see if it does any better.

That's better.

[Though, I did read it].

I painted the torque tube. Just the steel tube. Got a couple of runs but otherwise I'm happy with it.

Next is the actual clutch change..........

Give me a shout for some pointers.
Also consider:

Clutch house modification - re: aperture for the CS/reference sensor
Pilot bearing
Crank shaft oil seal
Needle roller bearings for clutch fork

If you are getting a clutch kit (which I think is sensible), you won't get the clutch fork bearings in the kit.

I came back from a decent (and mainly) wet jolly yesterday and by the time I got home, no heat through the heater. So today, I investigated and found out that it was nothing major - just some sort of inexplicable air lock. Phew! Bled the system and all is fine.

I cut my bell housing when my engine was out to make easier access for the reference sensors.

Whilst doing the clutch I renewed the clutch fork and the needle bearings. The clutch fork will likely be worn after 35 years. The guide tube had been replaced about 10 years previous and was still good, as had the clutch bolts. Clutch bolts can be re-used but aren't expensive and you may wish to change them while you're in.

Absolutely do the crank seal while you are in there, don't want oil ruining a new clutch. Mine was done obviously as the engine was rebuilt at the time.

My clutch was still serviceable after around 10 years and 50k miles, but the bearing was a bit grumbly, the pressure plate and clutch disc were passable and probably had a couple of years left in them but with the engine out it made sense to renew.

Stuart

I see - you've done it before.

Out of curiosity, how many miles has your clutch plate done? I know it doesn't compare to mine as yours is a turbo but just curious.

Thank you for all the recommendations.

I do intend to 'whilst I'm there' do the following:
replace the pilot bearing
Renew the crankshaft oil seal
replace the needle roller bearings in the clutch fork
Renew the clutch fork shaft
Replace the guide tube

I have all those parts waiting to go as well as the clutch kit.

I was on the fence about the bell housing mod but it does seem sensible to do it.

I'll add in some replacement clutch bolts to the list.

The only other 'whilst Im there' is the flywheel- do I take the opportunity to get it refaced and balanced? I suppose it depends on what I find when I have access to it......

Glad to read the heater issue was not anything too serious

I've done 10k since the new clutch/engine build.

Old clutch had done about 50/60k miles, probably had another 30/40k left in it had I not had the engine out.

A new clutch should be good for around 100k miles, maybe a bit more. I think I was showing around 100k miles when my original clutch died.

The flywheel resurfacing only worked a bit... [Bollox]. I cba to remove it, get some more metal off it and hope. Too much work and time so I am going to bite the bullet and get a new one. I suggest then, not to use WoS engineers if you go down that route. That took off 0.2mm which I think wasn't nearly enough.

I made a press for the crank shaft oil seal. I was impressed with my efforts but in the end, using Curil T, it was totally unnecessary as it just slides in effortlessly. . If you want the press, i'll happily send it up but I will never put an O ring oil seal in again without Curil T. It's magic paste, it really is.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from ... 2&_sacat=0

I presume you have done the oil seal before? If not, there's 2 types - 1 with ribbing across half the width of the ring and the other, ribbing across the whole external width of the seal. The latter is the one you want. Available from Auto doc. The Elring one is discernible from the other that is available as it has a black lip on it.

The clutch housing modification makes reassembly of the clutch housing slightly more tricky but it's not too bad. However, you can set up the gap in situ before reassembly of the clutch housing. I know people put a washer on that is iro 0.8mm on the end of an old cs/reference sensor to gap it. I used to do this but when I last had the flywheel off, I gapped it with a feeler gauge at exactly 0.8mm and I noticed a difference in performance. I think that gap is more critical than people think and gluing a washer to the end is potentially, a bit inaccurate.

Even with the clutch housing mod., I still found that I had to disconnect the cs/ref. sensor bracket on the rocker/cam carrier cover to get access to one of the clutch housing bolts anyway.

Thursday - broke down. Split in the short HVAC pipe. Called classic line breakdown. Fixed Friday. Such a nice feeling to have a big box of spares.

Noticed odometer wasn't working. Pulled the cluster out for the millionth time. Replacement odometer gear gone! B******S. Only done 3k. Should last longer than that. Ordered a partworks.de one.
Also ordered window clips 171837485. These I never replaced when I did the window scraper rubber and the rubber doesn't quite sit right. Cheap as chips from AH Schofield VW specialist. Less than a pound each. Reminded me of my '74 bay restoration. I mean no offence to the Porker 'community' - especially Porker sellers, the VW guys are a completely different breed. I had so much fun and got to know so many people when doing that resto. I could spend far too long on the blower chatting to x,y and z up and down the country. They seem to have time for you.

https://www.alanhschofield.com/home.html

Which leads to the next set of jobs; replace micro switch on o/s door handle and drop link on n/s door handle + those window rubber clips. That's a days work.

This morning, got up to Autodoc delivery of front discs, pads and drop links for the beamer. The joys!

Built up and installed a set of Bilstein B6 converted struts.

Don’t go getting all excited, it wasn’t on my car it was on a rather splendid 968 cabriolet.

Took a bit longer than it should have due to a couple of rookie mistakes but got there in the end.

Thanks to Waylander for the loan of the camber gauge- greatly appreciated.

Not too stiff I hope?