What did you do to your 924/944/968 today?

[Crank Case]

Hello H

There is doweling between the box bell housing and transaxle. Perhaps it's seized. By the sounds of the gearbox mount, it's in that sort of condition.

[Crank Case]

Support the box and pry it apart.
Pray the torque tube bearings are okay else you'll have another big job

I presume you are doing the clutch?

[51rider]

Hi Rob, Looks like it’s you & me keeping this thread going!
I thought there must be a dowel but as no- one has ever made any reference to them when removing or reinstalling the transaxle, Inhadnt checked the parts drawing
The box is supported on the transmission jack; I’m really nervous about trying to pry it apart as I’m worried I’ll break the casing or the torque tube flange:shock:
Clutch is secondary job, the main issue was the gearbox mount and the state of the crossmember.

[Crank Case]

Hi Rob, Looks like it’s you & me keeping this thread going!
I thought there must be a dowel but as no- one has ever made any reference to them when removing or reinstalling the transaxle, Inhadnt checked the parts drawing
The box is supported on the transmission jack; I’m really nervous about trying to pry it apart as I’m worried I’ll break the casing or the torque tube flange:shock:
Clutch is secondary job, the main issue was the gearbox mount and the state of the crossmember.

Have you got some ratchet straps? Strap the box to the transmission jack and you can wriggle away! Beforehand, use copious quantities of deblocker. Have a look at the diagram to see where the dowelling is. I can't remember off the top of my head.

[Forums are dead. We're now in the soundbite/Tik Tok era. It encourages attention spans no more than a Gnat]

[51rider]

The dowels are effectively the sleeves for the M10 Allen key bolts at the top of the transaxle.
I’m using a scissor type transmission jack that comes with ratchet straps but I’ll add another for extra security.
As for deblocker, any particular suggestions/ recommendations?

[Crank Case]

The dowels are effectively the sleeves for the M10 Allen key bolts at the top of the transaxle.
I’m using a scissor type transmission jack that comes with ratchet straps but I’ll add another for extra security.
As for deblocker, any particular suggestions/ recommendations?

Innotec deblock oil.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222799217914 ... OFEALw_wcB

Local automotive supplier should have it.

[sgl1966]

If the bolts are corroded into the aluminium mount , I find it easier to support box and drop it attached to the gearbox support , one bolt either side .
You can then sort it out on the ground with a punch , aqua blasting and copper slip before install .

[sgl1966]

I also find it easier to reinstall with the support attached .

[51rider]

I’ve got the mount bolts out despite the heavy corrosion Porsche describes the two Allen head bolts at the top of the transaxle as pan head screws. These go through two sleeves into the torque tube rear flange. These sleeves act as dowels and will likely have galvanic corrosion due to the dissimilar metals and are holding up the transaxle. I need to break this bond to get the bloody thing out
The rear crossmember also needs to come out for some restoration work but helpfully, the bolt on the passenger side crumbled away into a nice round shape when I tried undoing it despite copious application of penetrating fluid. I’m either going to have to try welding a sacrificial nut on to what remains or drill it out & clean up the thread afterwards.

[Crank Case]

I would take the weld option over the drill one in case you damage the thread of the captive 'nut' (threaded sleeve). Nuts and bolts are expendable.
When dropping the rear suspension and torsion bar assembly, I replaced all the nuts and bolts with new. You know you have the PET catalogue for the bolt sizes. Kayfast on ebay. I used them often. Free postage and they are super quick. Alternatively, the creatively named 'Bolt world' in the event Kayfast doesn't have what you want.
Don't forget copper ease.

[tr7v8]

Better off using aluminium anti seize paste in ali rather than copa-slip which is yet another dissimilar metal.

[sgl1966]

I have had great success with the Irwin hammer on bolt extractors in the past . Would be my first option before welding below fuel tank !!

[51rider]

Success
The transaxle came off the dowels with a loud crack that made me think I had broken the casing or the end of the torque tube flange but all was fine.
Then I turned my attention to the crossmember and having applied a load of heat, I persuaded a 16mm impact socket over the remains of the bolt head and had at it with the impact wrench on a low torque setting and hey presto, out it came
The gearbox mount was next for some attention but I gave the bolts a good dose of deblocker beforehand and they barely put up a fight with the impact wrench. The mount just fell apart upon removal so I feel justified in doing all this.
I forgot to mention that the reversing light switch disassembled itself when I went to disconnect the wiring, so a new one is on order.
I am replacing all the nuts/bolts and washers with new. I was going to give the Bilt Hamber Dyna slip product a try on the fastenings, I’ve been using the aluminium antiseize elsewhere.
I checked the torque tube bearings and there wasn’t a sound from them so I've dodged that bullet
I’’ve found my engine stand, so that will be put into service and have the transaxle bolted on to it which will make cleaning it up a much easier proposition.

I forgot to post up that yesterday, I cleaned up both drive shafts, removing any result and then treating with Bilt Hambers Hydrate 80. Once cured, this was followed by multiple coats of Frosts chassis black and today, they were the treated to multiple coats of stone chip.

I’ve never had any joy with screw extractors- usually caused me more pain than the broken bolt! I used a fire blanket and soldering mat to keep the heat away from the tank as much as possible.

[Crank Case]

Progress . Liquid poly for the mount rebuild?

New seals for the box? Especially oil seals. I know

CV joints are reasonably inexpensive.

Poly bushes for the torsion bar assembly...

Have the filters been done?... that mesh filter in the tank. Often forgotten about. It's inexpensive and should be changed (off the top of my head), every 20k(?).

[now you're in there, the fun starts]

[51rider]

I grabbed a new genuine ‘box mount some time ago via the bay of flea so I’m not going to play with liquid poly at this point although, I might be tempted to put it to one side for a side project waaaay down the line…. Hmmmm……..

I hadn’t intended to replace the ‘box seals as they are all good - I’m leaning towards the - if it ain’t broke don’t fix it kind of thing. However, I do get the fact that they are 34 years young and I have great access……..

Whilst I am looking to clean and tidy the torsion bar housing, I don’t particularly want to strip it all down and lose all the factory ride height. I have no measurements taken and I’m way past being able to get some. The ally swing arms will get new bushes and whatever else I can get to relatively easily. I’m nervous about poly bushes as I keep hearing tales of extra cabin noise and a much firmer ride and I don’t want to muck it up

I hadn’t intended to replace the CV joints as they are in good order, with no splits or tears. That said, the grease does look quite thin & when I undid the bolts, it was running out of the bolt holes. I presume this isn’t good and I should replace the CV’s?

I have fitted a new in - tank filter. I’ve seen the videos where they look like they have been put in a jar of black treacle but to be perfectly honest, I feel changing mine was a waste of money as it was completely intact and almost the same colour as the new one going in. I don’t recall seeing anything in the history file about it being changed previously.

Let’s see if I can get the rear suspension off today and continue with progress. The next two days are rather bitty and I’m not going to have the luxury of uninterrupted play