In the box was 2 x M8 master cylinder nuts and the master cylinder to servo cut seal.
My first observation was that the push rod/diaphragm resistance is much much higher than my old one.
After passenger seat removal and carpet cleaning on Tuesday (iirc), I left the seat out for easier access. Installed the 3 nuts and forgot to install the threaded U clamp but... a brain wave: attach servo pipe (and DME), fire it up and make use of the depression to push the rod in for sufficient clearance to install the clamp to the push rod. Bingo!
Now, I did start it with the servo off yesterday and it didn't seem to run as lumpy as I expected. I'm beginning to wonder if the servo was leaking for some time. I have had this high idle and a bit of a rough start until warm yet this evening, with the new servo in, it fired up very quickly and it seems a lot smoother. A bit of a curve ball given the usual vacuum leak suspects.
We shall see.
Tomorrow: bleed brakes, adjust connecting clamp to push rod to remove any play. Cross fingers I get some luck and it's spot on - I did measure the locknut distance down the threaded part of the push rod but re-measuring in situ is a bit vague. Then re-install sound proofing and re-fit all the electrical stuff. However, when the TOAD alarm decided to chuck a wobbly last January(?), I tidied everything up under there at the same time and so putting that part back together is made a lot easier.
I must say, it all looks very clean 'up' there underneath that side of the dash.
Doubt i'll get to drive it though given the weather forecast.
Oh - and my drivers seat repair looks good. 9 out of 10 but far far better than it was. Colour match with the vinyl is excellent now it's sat in the car, I can compare. I'll now chuck on the seat cover
