Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

I posted before about doing my oil cooler seals and asked about the special tool that is used to align the housing. I've got that covered now through getting the dimensions so I can make my own on a lathe.

I have another problem now:
I cannot get the housing out from the area beside the engine. Everything is unbolted. The housing is free to move. Nomatter what way I turn it I cannot find a gap to squeeze it out. I feel part of my problem might be that I have only removed one of the two exhaust manifold pieces.

The central manifold section (cylinders 2 & 3) came out after a bit of wiggling. Unfortunately the manifold for the front and rear cylinders is not for coming out. The trouble is that there is not enough clearance for it to pass off the end of the studs. It is hemmed in by the side of the engine bay. If there was an extra 5 - 10 mm of space it would slide over the studs.

I know the rubber engine mounts give some flex and I have tried prying the engine up a little to give a little extra clearance. How safe is this?

Or are there other secrets for removing the manfiolds that I just don't know?

They are a twat to get off Stuart, get a big pole down the side of the engine and lever gently towards the passenger side. That is also a sign that your engine mount is compressed slightly as well! If you get stuck, give me a shout and I'll nip over with a big bar!
Alasdair

One three foot scaffolding pole and two bits of wood and I got them out. Got the oil cooler housing out too but that required shifting the power steering fluid reservoir.
Cheers

- Now off to watch 'the scheme' on BBC 1!

I've been there & done that. I actually got the special tool from ebay in advance. But discovered that with the new type pressure relief valve the best way to align it is using the valve itself. If you look at the valve & see how it works you will see that it's impossible to nip it as the valve is sleeved. You only need the tool for the old type but these should be replaced if disturbed (Or so Porsche said.) Be careful of the thread for the valve. It's a beggar to get at & easy to get it wrong if the thread isn't in perfect condition.

Okay,
I'm half way through making the tool. Really only the thread to do. To be honest cutting the thread is going to be a pain and may scrap the whole tool if it goes wrong. J.J., are you telling me you mounted and aligned your housing only using the valve? I'm certain that my valve is the new type (89 S2) but have have read a fair amount of conflicting information about how important the tool is. So far it seems that everyone agrees that the tool is definetely required when the old valve is present but 50/50 as to whether it is important with the newer style. Has anyone else done this job? If I can get away without the tool I can refit my housing tomorrow night.

Look at the valve. There is a piston inside the casing. The casing will align the oil cooler. Doesn't matter if the casing is touching as the piston will still do it's job. Just fit the valve before tightening the oil cooler. But make sure the shims are correct! Porsche redesigned it to make it foolproof as they were having too many warranty claims on the old valve. (Which required some skill to fit!) My car had the old valve when I bought it & half of it was missing & it was for a different engine! Still worked most of the time! Was fitted by a well known Porsche specialist.........

I need to re-seal my oil cooler but have the old spring type valve. I tried to do a bit of research into the alignment tool but only found mention of tools for the newer type valves. I've had a look at a newer type valve from my S and can't see how the alignment would cause that to fail as the whole piston part can angle from the head.

Does this mean I now have to fork out for a new valve?

You don't have to. Porsche recommended the new type valve as so many of the mechanics were struggling to align the old type properly. New ones are expensive. I got mine from Bert Gear for £250 & that was awhile ago. If you refit the original you must align it very carefully or you could go to start the car one day & have no oil pressure. They always stick open! Thats why Porsche redesigned it. Talk to Bert or Jon Mitchel if you are unsure. There advice is free to club members. I have a cooler seal gasket set that is new if your interested. there are 2 tools. One for the old type & a pointless one for the new type that doesn't really need one!

Already got the sealing kit from Bert but thanks for the offer. Had a look around and found a few alignment tools for sale in the states, may have to get one from there.