Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

Anyone know whether 12/6 o'clock play is admissible once the washer behind the retaining nut is adjusted so that it can just be moved (as per Clarks Garage procedure). I tighten up my hub nut, then back it off until washer can just be moved, and I still have vertical play in the wheel. I suspect they are duff. Bearings aren't that old either!

Get someone to put their foot on the brake & see if you still have movement. If it still moves then it almost certainly where the strut piston meets the strut body. If it doesn't move then check at 3 & 9 with no brake. if the slack is the same as the 12 & 6 then it is the wheel bearing.
Nip it up so the washer doesn't move then back it off so it just moves. If the slack is still there then it is new wheel bearing time. Sometimes you can adjust them out & then a week later we are back to the same slack that is deffo a knacked bearing.

Make sure you are using quality German or Japanese bearings. The cheap ones don't last. Generally once they start to need adjustment there goosed. Though with the state of the roads since winter it's hardly surprising.

Hmm, with brakes on, no movement however can't detect any 9/3 o'clock play. Still suspect it to the wheel bearing though... They're not expensive so precautionary swap out, I think.

thanks, guys...

Then if it is a wheel bearing you should have equal movement at 3/9 & also 12 & 6. They aren't the easiest bearing to change (AMHIK!) so it is worth adjusting first.

[/quote]Then if it is a wheel bearing you should have equal movement at 3/9 & also 12 & 6. They aren't the easiest bearing to change (AMHIK!) so it is worth adjusting first.[/quote]
Understand but with both wheels off the ground it's a bit difficult to detect... I do have play at 1:30/7:30 though so odds on it's the bearing. Tried adjusting - makes little difference. So what's the tricky bit about a change?

Hubs are alloy. You need a press & you have to be very careful or you will damage new bearings & hubs.

You don't need a press but you do need a BFH a drift & heat. Although I needed heat on mine on Paul's we managed without. Unless you have a massive vice (not drink or fags ) then it helps to knock a couple of studs out. The bearings are big bu99ers & do tend to seize into the hub.

I bit the bullet and had mine fitted by a local mechanic both wheel including bearings only cost £130 fitted and took him two hours, in my opinion worth every penny because I knew I would end up with a hub on the drive with half a bearing stuck halfway in or out.

I know a few people who have only changed the roller bearing and left the original race in the hub which to me is not right new bearings in old race surely will wear quickly and not seat properly, but each to their own.

Wimp! They aren't bad, it is just the size of the hub which means it doesn't fit in the vice, unless you remove a stud or two. When I did Paul's bearing there were two of us & I think that made a difference.
Fitting the rollers without replacing the race is very naughty & likely to not last very long.

Concur. Seen it done before and the hubs got alarmingly hot after a few miles!!! Will do mine myself however will engage the help of the local garage who happen to have a press!!
Parts on order.... will I get it all done before Gaydon??

The trick is to grind the old outer case down so you can use it as a drift for the new.
Knock the old one out with the hub on the floor.
Not a difficult job at all.

Rich

Good advice... Did you use heat on yours?

Paul

I've done a few sets with no heat and no probs at all. Put the new bearings in the freezer overnight.

Rich