Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

O.k T-cut in the bin it is then but what about the rest of the question? Any help please as I don't want to make an arse of it and waste my time and money. I really want to get it right and transform the look of the car.

I've only used the polish from Meguires. Can't help. I wash with pfr then polish. No cut but then the guy I got mine from was always polishing it so it was fairly clean. Most of the car has been resprayed over the last few years so it really didn't need it. Except for the sunroof which I wrecked with T cut Had to have it painted in the end

How have they got away with selling so much of this stuff over the years?

OK. wash the car then get the clay,knead it into a flattish shape and rub gently over the paintwork one panel at a time.youll find that it wont move unless the panel is wet,this is what the detailing spray is for, so spray and rub.then dry the panel and use the paint cleaner in much the same way as you would T cut.after this you apply some polish to protect the paintwork and cut down the number of times you have to do all this. I do mine twice a year but I m not really into concours stuff,some do it more often!(sad innit?) Ive found Meguiars to be quite good stuff and at the rate I use it it should last a few years yet!!

Nowt wrong with T Cut used properly. I've cut overspray & orange peely paint back with it & it is fine. Generally after using 1200-1500 wet & dry. Currently tend to use Autoglym paint renovator. When I was doing some work the other week couldn't find the T Cut or cutting paste so used Solvo Autosol, which worked OK. What a lot of people forget is that after T Cut you must polish & then wax otherwise it'll go chalky twice as fast, as it leaves a rough surface.

Now you've really messed my head up! Who said anything about clay and spray So I'm guessing that this is what is known as clay barring? Come to think about it when I tried T-cutting the bonnet in the rain last week I noticed microscopic raised black dots that didn't shift. Will clay barring shift them?

Sounds to me like contaminants (dust or grit) from when it was painted & assuming the paint isn't deep enough to T Cut through them then nowt will remove it except sanding & repainting.

1-Clay bar then dry
2 -Paint cleaner
3 -Hand Polish
4 -Wax
5 - Detail spray

None of the above offer real cutting compounds so to speak.

Stage 2-4 = 1 applying pad and one cloth to remove each
Stage 5 = one cloth on and cloth for off

Microfibres after a while get effectively 'loaded' which means removal is not easy so move to a new one.

Or break out the machine... now you are talking !



The best stuff available at local stores is probably Megs. There are better but then you get in to detailing sites etc etc.

In response to Jim. The Tcut was too harsh. It went through to the primer. It's old fashioned & hard to remove. Modern rubing compound in various grades depending what your doing is way much quicker to use & remove. When old paint is too thin you have to be careful. I wasn't. I have used it on not so old cars in the past with good results. But there are better things these days.

Use Farcela G10 or G3 to cut a good motor factor should sell it, one panel at a time then polish then wax to protect.
Mind you a clay bar to start with is not a bad idea as it removes tar and contaminents, no need to waste detailing spray as a lube, good old H2O will do.
You could always come to my house and i will attack it with my Porter Cable rotary polisher.just kidding though if you were nearer i would give you a demo on a panel and loan you it

Hi,

I have used the Meguiars 3 step polish system to good effect. I gave the car a good wash and dry. I then used the Meguiars clay bar kit and detailing spray to get rid of any surface imperfections. I then used step 1 bottle - crystal cutting compound. 1 microfibre cloth to apply it. 1 microfibre cloth to buff. Incidentally, I didn't put the polish on or take it off in a circular action. I apply it horizontally as using a circular motion adds swirl marks to the paint work.
After I then applied step 2 - deep shine using the same technique as above - again another microfibre cloth to apply it and one to take it off. Then step 3 - Carnuba Wax - yep, you guessed it - another 2 new microfibre cloths. The whole process took me about 5 hours from start to finish. I worked at one panel at a time. Hope this helps.
The results I felt were stunning with a near mirror finish. When it rains, the water immediately turns to drops on the body work and runs off the car.

See previous link below that I posted in May.

viewtopic.php?f=25&t=4254

Ben