Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

I need to replace the brake lines on my 944, probably best if I do the whole lot as some of them look like they'd crumble if I were to be heavy handed with them.

I don't really know much about replacing brake lines so what can you guys suggest? I guess the cheapest method would be to buy some copper piping, connectors and the tools to bend and flare the pipe but what diameter pipe do I need and what length to replace the whole lot.

I also need to replace the hard fuel lines and I've read somewhere else that Pirtek are the best bet for this but do they need to see the old pipe first in order to match up the new stuff?

I've done quite a few lines on the 944 & loads of other cars. Get 2 reels of 3/16" (for most cars) copper brake pipe, a roller type pipe cutter & a flaring tool. Use brass unions which will fix any corrosion problem. All available from Automec or E Bay. When I did the kit I bought a bending tool but I've never used it since on road cars, using either hands or a can or similar. Practise on a couple of short bits first, there is definitely a technique to do it but it is quickly acquired. Also for earning beer money later when mates damage a pipe on a sunday afternoon
The fuel pipes can be done similarly but are bigger & fiddlier. Plumbers merchants are good for the bigger stuff.

Ask for CuproNickel brake pipe when you get it. Unlike Copper, it does not work harden and become brittle etc.

I was having a look on www.frost.co.uk who also sell connectors, they sell metric and UNF, which ones do I need?

Also where would I get CuproNickel pipe from?

Metric the 944 is M10 x 1mm & don't worry about using copper lots of people have used it for years with no problem.

Jim, Copper brake lines have to be rubber mounted and not touch the body or anything else. otherwise it chafes and breaks

Correct & so do normal steel lines for the SVA tests. Clipped every 300mm. Although everyone gets paranoid especially the US where it is illegal, I've never heard of it being a problem. Also the Boat Safety Scheme which is very anal, permits copper fuel lines.

In the distant past I worked on Moskovich's they had copper brake pipes and many suffered pipes breaking and this was caused by mechanics not being used working on cars with copper pipes, pipes chaffing on the body, not rubber mounted or touching each other

I had the rear brake lines on my S2 replaced complete up to the front bulkhead, so included the awkward run over the transaxle by my local garage for about £130 including a complete fluid replacement with ATF blue which I thought was a great price and much easier than me trying to crawl around underneath on the drive. However I have replaced a number of systems before and always use Cunifer as it is easier to work with and lasts almost forever. My fuel lines will probably need replacing soon and will try to do it over the winter using armoured flexible lines direct from the filter to the header and same for the return, that way I should be able to do it without dropping the transaxle. I found this link about replacing fuel lines and although I do not agree with the push fit unions some of the information is quite useful. http://www.arnnworx.com/fuel_lines.htm you can also download a copy of the Pirtek catalogue from their website which is very informative.

hi rob

have you done the fuel line yet i have to replace mine and wondered if you had any tips on how to do it

sy

Not yet, I was going to do it whilst doing the brakes but due to a few set backs I didn't get the chance and then the clutch packed up so had to sort that.

Should be doing it next after I replace all the clutch hydraulics.