Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

Hi All,

Does anyone know what the final amplifiers are?

Have googled, but not seen anything.

Thanks
Regards
Paul

Hi Paul

If you mean the Ignition amps...they are by your right knee as you face the car with the bonnet up....and yes they do fail and car will not spark....

All the best Brett

Fortunately one of very few parts in a 928 shared with other cars, so available pretty cheaply. I picked up new one on eBay for about £10 or maybe less, and keep it as spare as they can fail as Brett describes.

My handy Bosch cross reference guide tells me the Bosch module part number is BIM 124, and is also fitted to:

Citroen XM
Porsche 964
Porsche 928 S2 onwards
Porsche 944 S2
Porsche 968
Saab 900 85-93 (not Turbo)
Saab 9000 85-93
Volvo 240 88-93
Volvo 740 84-89 inc turbo
Volvo 760 87-89 inc turbo
Volvo 940 91-96 inc turbo
Volvo 960 2.8 V6

Nice one Adrian as always a mind of very useful information

Thanks Guys,

I know what you mean from your description. Glad it sounds like they can be picked up cheaply!

I have got a brand new set of 53 relays coming, so going to change those next. If still no good will change the coils next weekend and then look to replace the final amp things as well.

If I keep replacing things I have to get there eventually!

Regards
Paul

Hi Paul

I wouldn't bother with changing the coils until last.....I have never heard of both coils needing replacing..

Have you got a trailer ? If so and you can get it down to me , I will happily swap bits (like the amps) until we sort it.....

All the best Brett

Cheers Brett!

I want to fiddle for a bit longer before I give up though. I have not explored every possibility yet. At least want to try a few more things, but will take your advise and leave the coils for now.

I will have a look for the ignition amps and get these as well if I can find them. Had a look and none on ebay... will try a few other places.

My only concern is as mentioned by someone else it could be a problem with the imobiliser or alarm. I will have a look for the boxes and see if cables run anywhere.

Regards
Paul

Any tips on removing the relays? I think my fingers were going to snap or the fuse board come out with the relays still attached before I could get it to part company.
Long nose pliers maybe?? Any tips?

Hi

First DISCONNECT the battery or pliers etc will cause a fire...

Second you need to pull the BOTTOM edge of the relay or the top will come off it....and usually ruin the relay...

All the best Brett

The relays are very tight.

Sealey has a relay removal tool which I find helpful as it gets a good grip on the relay case and lets you squeeze while pulling (so less risk of pulling can off relay, but can still happen!).

Brett is absolutely right to suggest prying base of relay gently, but crucial to disconnect battery first.

You can use an angled screwdriver, or improvise a tool.

Otherwise just keep waggling while pulling firmly, and it will eventually come out. Don't yank it or you may just pull cover off or damage socket.

Once it's removed a good tip is to put a ziplock tie round it before replacing in panel, that way you have a nice plastic loop to grab to pull it out in future, with pressure on the base not the relay can.

Thanks for that. I will try to pick up the sealey tool as I couldn't get most of them to budge last weekend.
I was going to try again today but my box of parts arrived this morning and it had been mispacked, leaving two relays behind!

Can't think of anywhere I am going to pick the tool up tomorrow ... but will check out the web. Machine mart is a possibility?

Fitted my new bonnet struts this morning. Very satisfying! Took me back to my first car ... A Renault Fuego. It also had gas struts for the boot.

Thanks again for pointng me in the direction of the relay remover.

Best Regards
Paul

I found the tool at local auto shop, but plenty on web including toolshopdirect if you can wait a few days:

https://www.toolshopdirect.co.uk/item.p ... 3/sn/AK421

Can't remember seeing it in Machine Mart.

Going to give it a try with the fingers again tomorrow and if still no luck will order one for next weekend.
No desparate rush now I am waiting for the two other relays anyway.

Thanks again,
Regards
Paul

Success then failure!

Changed the relays and she started! So at least I know the engine is a runner.

Was sat in her running for a while thinking that she was running a bit rich when I noticed the puddle of petrol forming under the car.

Turned her off and emptied my sons sand pit on the resulting petroleum lake, but it took some time for the leak to stop.

Looks like it is coming from drivers side rear wheel arch. The pipe appears to be rubber from the front of the car and its leaking from where the rubber goes into the connection in the wheel arch.



About to have a look in the manual to see what I can make out. Hopefully its not too tricky a job.

Having sat for a while it looks like it couldn't take the fuel system being under pressure again?
Are there any other weak spots I should be aware of?

As mentioned, the positive is she runs, and once warmed ran very well indeed. If I can fix the leak we should be in good shape.
Also tried forward and reverse gears on the drive and worked ok.

Any feedback from anyone who has tackled this before would be welcomed!

Thanks
Regards
Paul

Hi

If a 928 is going to leak petrol....thats precisely where it will do it, and looking at that old cut off tie wrap, It looks like its been repaired there before...

Never happened to mine but from what I have heard most people replace "a section" of the pipe as to replace it completely is a massive job as it is meant to be one pipe from front to back....

Hope this helps, and never heard of it leaking anywhere else

All the best Brett