Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

I finally managed to get some work done on my car today. One of the driveshafts makes a horrible din once warm & pretty sure it was the O/S one. So out came the tools & started to take it off. The transaxle bolts came off easy, the wheel end bolts all came loose easily until the last one which stripped out. It took me the best part of 45 minutes to get it off. Eventually it succumbed to Mr. Angle Grinder after 5 minutes. After the driveshaft was pulled off the bolts remains undid with my fingers
The outer CV is OK, lots of wet grease, but the inner transaxle one is full of dry rusty powder that may have been grease once, no wonder it clacked away when warm.

A phone call to a few suppliers tomorrow to see what the best option is. Just writing a list of part no’s from PET of the bits. Driveshaft complete is 180 + P&P from Bert, CV joints are 65ish, it looks like OPC Joints come with bolts.
The bolts are just under 2 quid each so I might measure them & see if it’s a standard Allen bolt.

As I recall the bolt length is standard-ish but the shoulder is longer on the Porsche bolts.

Rich

Stuff the driveshafts. Get on with the blower

IIRC you need a star bit to get the bolts off

I went for the complete driveshaft but admittedly it wasn't OEM.

Locating the new bolts was by far the most difficult part of the job when I did it.

Adam

Can't believe you posted all that with no mention of a hammer anywhere

The involvement of a hammer goes without saying.

Hammer goes without question! That was used with a very sharp cold chisel trying to the the bolt to turn, this was after thumping in a variety of other bits that were a tight fit. Yup & I did have a shiny new splined bit but it wasn't having any of it.
Chatting to Paul on the train this morning discussing the various options of sourcing the parts. Cheapest for the bolts is ECP by the look of it at 60 P each. I hate doing CV joints I end up with more grease on me than the joint.

Yes I know, but the car is probably going to the Nurbergring in August (work permitting) & it'll have to go with the tired 2.5 lump because of time. So it needs driveshafts sorted & a looooonng overdue belt change done before I go.
PS I'll be posting details of the German trip later as it's available for everyone & relatively cheap.

I don't know if this is correct but its worth checking. When I did mine someone told me that the bolts are stretch bolts and normal bolts could back out which is exactly what happened what to me. I got round that by doing them up extra tight.

you can buy allen bolts from a good engineers supplies. i got mine at K Supplies. I can give you the managers number is you want.

UPDATE. Job now complete for both driveshafts. The N/S one was in a lot better nick than the O/S but both tired. The N/S one unbolted completely with no problems.
Needed one new CV joint & all new bolts plus about 75% of a pot of new CV grease! The joint came from OPC as it includes 6 bolts, new gaiter & circlips. Now all reassembled & tested & seems OK. I think a longer test with lunch in the middle is required!

I have never heard of any manufacturer using Torque Yield bolts on CVs

And as I can only see a torque setting for CV bolts and NOT a torque setting and an additional degree tightening or a mention of having to renew them when changing a CV, Then I can't see them being Torque Yield bolts

I don't think they are stretch bolts, the torques setting is quite high though 30 ft/lb which is probably tighter than I'd have done them up!
I suspect this is why people have issues with them backing out, they are likely as not tightened enough in the first place.

Going to have to replace the CV joints on mine after noticing that the clips that once held the boots in place had disintegrated.

I feel your pain as I used enough effort removing the rear brake calipers. Tried hammering the pins for the brake pads out and all that happened was I compressed the end of the pin so had to remove the entire caliper (which needed to be rebuilt anyway) and cut off the head with a dremel and cut the other side with a junior hacksaw and had to push the remainder out with a vice.

Just once more caliper left and then it's time to find out what else is seized up.

Firstly which bit of the CV boot? The small end has no clip, it is meant to be tight on the shaft, which mine weren't. They now have cable ties on to keep the water out. The other end is part of a shell that is clamped by the bolts & goes over the CV joint a short way.

Seized pins on callipers are a pain we are reconditioning some callipers for Paul my ARO at the mo & we cut the pins out in bits in the end, they were seized solid.