Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

Hi everyone,

Finally finished putting in my new (to me) engine!

To my genuine amazement it started and ran, it seems the bloke on ebay who sold me the engine was telling the truth! (must have him stuffed).

Just a few teething problems now to sort out. I managed to break one of the track rod ends(and my ball joint seperator) so fitted a new one and now have to get the tracking done.
One (or possibly all four) of the belts are touching somewhere, so they're making a nice squealing noise.
And the fan has stopped working, does anyone know if it matters which way round the wires go on the temperature switch?

Otherwise, I'm pretty pleased, I just need to get away from the spanners for a while!

good work, a well deserved rest is due now then

Switch connections don't matter.

Glad the swap went well, any tips?

Good news Andy

Well done i know how that feeling of relief is at it starts without sound like a box of spanners !! : )

cheers

Thanks guys,

Although, the euphoria may be short lived, for some reason the cam belt comes forward and starts rubbing. There seems to be vibration from the crankshaft pulleys. I did change the crankshaft seal and I'm wondering if I tightned the bolt back enough or maybe its because I resprayed the badly rusted power steering and alternator pulleys and sent them out of balance. Any thoughts?

To change the engine wasn't that bad, in fact I think this would be a much better way if you wanted to change your clutch. It took me about a day and a half to drop the engine down. The only downside is that you need an engine hoist.
My tips for doing this would be to have a selection of flexible bars and joints and different length extension bars to reach all the awkward bolts. Also the manual says to drop it on to a piece of carpet and drag it out, I found this virtually impossible. So bit by bit I "walked" it out. It would be far better to have a piece of wood on wheels to pull it out.
Also, Halfords are selling flexible head, self ratcheting spanners for half price (£37.50), these were an absolute godsend.

Tips useful Andy.

As for the cam belt rubbing it sounds like the pulleys or idlers are out of align, check with a steel rule.
No shims missing from behind any?

Thanks Jim,

Had a look at again and it appears I've put the crankshaft spocket on the wrong way round Doh!
Although, in the engine I took out, the sprocket is also on the wrong way round (i.e lip next to the engine), so I'm still a bit confused as to the vibration and the belt coming forward.

But I'm going to take it out and turn it around and see if that helps. I'm just waiting for a flywheel lock to come from the states. It was pretty difficult undoing the crankshaft bolt with the engine out of the car with my 77 year old father-in-law jamming the flywheel with a screwdriver. I can't really expect him crawl under the car to do it again, can I....?
Unless someone has an ingenious method I hadn't thought of.

Now that the engine is in the car, can't you put it in gear with the hand brake on and slacken the pulley like that?

Thanks Simon,

I like that idea, I'll give it a go tomorrow.

As above but if it just turns the engine. An old fitters trick is to use a t bar & socket with a length of pipe slid over it. (Better a spanner if the socket won't stay on.) Get someone to give a steady pull on it as if to undo it. Hit the base of the t bar with a lump hammer & shock it. Often it will crack it loose. It's a bit hard on the elbows of the guy on the bar though.
Well done on the engine swap. You should be able to tackle anything now!

easier way is to put a socket on a breaker bar and rest it against the ground unplug the coil lead and crank the engine. it will undo the crank bolt

or flip the car over

post an easier and more fail safe way of undoin a crank pully bolt and i will eat my breaker bar

mitsu's are ridiculous tight and no manner of someone holding it in gear with their foot hard on the brake or a 3/4 drive HGV class air gun will shift the bolt either way. wedge a braker bar and its done in seconds. no sweat, no busted knuckles etc. every engine i know of so far rotates clock wise and crank bolts undo anti clock wise so whats easier?