Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

http://refresh951.com/HFHead.htm

https://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/ ... NDSEY.html


R

The large 4 cylinder 8v Porsche 2.5 isn't a high revving engine in stock form, it can be made to rev to 7000rpm for racing as you suggest.

R[/quote]


As posted on PCGB recently I hit 7137rpm the other week...oops....I'll try not to do that too often but my engine can clearly handle it safely... Talking of heads, I have an LR stage 2 head, probably one of the first in the UK from some 10 years ago....with most of the extra goodies included....I have since changed the valves as LR's design was prone to failure which it did....

Pete[/quote]

I don't know what the rev limit is on a 944T but shortly after buying my car I hit it in 3rd gear while not paying enough attention to the tacho. Flirting with 7k+ on forged rods may be a bit different to holding it on cast rods though Pete

I guess so Paul but when talking over 7k it's not just the rods that need to be up to the task, much more important is the rod bolts...IIRC the redline on a standard turbo is around 6.7k..I could have this wrong though as I have increased the red line limit a number of times over the years, it may have been a little less? Fitting a DPW with re-map alone should allow hitting the redline all the way up to fifth on an otherwise standard car...

That's an interesting link Roger, his upgrade looks similar to an LR stage 2 head...as stated when I ordered mine I had all the extra's fitted, back then they also did a high-velocity combustion chamber coating...this was left of my head at the last minute as just before mine was built they had some failings of this coating...I do have the high-velocity exhaust coating though and uprated springs although I can't remember the exact details now, it was a long time ago....

Pete

Don't try that without the engine under trays fitted....

Haha....many people don't realise just how important the under trays are.....

The light steering certainly got my undivided attention... I'm contemplating a front splitter and some bonnet vents.

some splitters look good, I'm not a 'vent' fan...I like to keep the exterior as Porsche designed....removing the undertray also causes more heat build up..

Pete

I wouldn't be considering bonnet vents if I didn't think they worked, most high performance front engine cars seem to have them now.

understood Paul...it's just not for me that's all....each to their own sir...

Of course Pete . Personally I don't care for the vents on something like a V12 Vantage, but a couple of subtle vents towards the rear of the bonnet to let out heat, and some air out over the car rather than under it sounds good.

So in conclusion, buy a Lindsey head ?

If I had £1000 I wouldn't go for a MAF kit from anyone, I'd go for a stand alone ECU from Peep Padam (Google of facebook him). Then you can carry out any future mods you like.

The first thing / question is how good is your engine? it may be running fine but a
compression test will tell you more, even then if you remove the head the cylinders may be a bit oval
and then do you leave it as is? or have a rebuild..

If it's pretty good leave it, the extra power from a ported head and camshaft won't strain it too much

Lindsey can supply a head but will charge you $700 for it! , so get one from a breaker / Ebay etc..
And ship it to them in the USA, it cost me approx £70 UPS

Lindsey's stripping rebuild and porting is $1195 Level II (Approx £925)

The Web Cams camshaft was about £300 ish from memory (in 2015)

http://www.webcamshafts.com/


Ideally you'll do the belts at the same time also an ignition refresh and then the mapping, possibly an exhaust change
also then you've completed the cycle, better flow in and out.

https://www.facebook.com/Chipwizards/

Once you start it's always best that you replace many other things but then the costs soon mount up,
what may seem like a grand and half of components soon doubles with other things....

R

It's had :
Rotor
Dizzy
Plugs
Reconditioned Injectors
Leads
Reference sensors
Both temp sensors
Fuel filter
Fuel check valve
New relays
K&n panel filter
Thermostat
Battery

I have had both the afm and dme apart and both are good. It is currently running a 9 tuning chip which has been impressive.

It does idle a bit high once warmed up around 1100 ... so need to sort this and on cold start runs a bit rough for 30 or so seconds and then is fine.

So apart from the coil it's all new!

Ok, sounds good
R