Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

The door speaker covers are cracked and held on by blue tack (the clip on type like 993 rear speaker covers) Priced them up and decided to try and repair them (£75 each). Then found some new very similar Blaupunkt ones at £9.43 the pair, worth a look. They are rectangular a bit like the screw on D-shaped covers fitted to some 944 models.

I never let the tank go into the 1/4 min indicated level...! Also applies to the engine oil - always keep it on the 'max' level.

Life got in the way of all my winter project plans, but this weekend started by giving the 944 a good wash after sitting for a few months.

Followed that with 4 new GKN CV joints:


And then a new clutch master cylinder that it's been wanting for far too long - turned out to be a far easier job than expected, although not very happy about the hose routing at the moment... (or that I didn't have any new nuts to replace those brown ones )



A quick inspection is also showing lots of surface rust popping up around the engine bay under the new paint, and cracking around the rear arches. Why did I buy a car with a recent respray again?

Ordered the rear seat delete kit, email reply:-Your order will be fulfilled by Sportwagen Zuerich-Kloten GmbH since DEUTSCH NINE INT GMBH is being liquidated. Schade.

Refitted cage and Recaros booked track day took Pro9 splitter to be painted. I was going to keep it std but got bored.

Question; does shifting 1-3-5 have any detrimental effect on your gearbox? Presumably any problems could be cancelled out by double de-clutching. It saves fuel this way, Porsche ratios are too close when it comes to slow, heavy, urban traffic.

Hi,

Block changing is a recognised Roadcraft technique as used by ROSPA, IAM, Police. It shouldn't put any undue strain on any component so long as you don't allow the engine to labour.

Matt

12 month oil/filter change (Shell Helix7 10W40) coincides prior to the annual George Old Car Show this weekend. Nice five hour drive in the S2 and buddy in his S2 Cab. Great old cars to check, including the largest stand of Model T Fords...

Started sorting out the rust in the rear wheel arch.Some of the return edge on the inner arch has gone too , so fabricated a repair panel and weld ed it on.Got a good secondhand arch that I will cut out and weld on.

Busy weekend:- Changed altenator voltage regulator, fitted KLA tensioner (Rik's was broken so he was having my old one), new altenator and ps belts, prepped Pro9 splitter and trial fit (perfect) but had to repair a crack due to bad packing. Rik (son) came down from Glasgow and we checked belt tension, fitted replacement tensioner and radiator fan switch. Car booked for track days at Oulton on 3rd and 10th March(RS day). New Yokos on, great feedback, tramlines a bit, can't wait to get them warmed up. Not as floaty as the Federals which I was not impressed with at all. Used the Arnworx belt tensioner for the engine belts very fiddly and dropped it on Rik's head no damage to tool. Used Krikit for other belts much easier. Frozen stiff but it had to be done. I bought a pack of batwing fittings from Arnworx will save a lot of pain, good stuff.

Finally got everything back together and running after my Christmas project to replace the head gasket. Old gasket was still in good condition but hopefully will now be good for another 30 years! Took the opportunity to have the head skimmed, new valve guides and valve seats re-cut. Also learned a great deal more about how everything fits together so a good learning experience.

Matt

Busy couple of weeks on all the cars.... Ive been meaning to put my Saratoga in the 968 but the 924 and 944 needed my attention lately. Had some time today to play about with the 968 tip selector and the micro switch actuator arm that snaps on these.

I bought another selector lever but this has the same issue with the arm as it already has a hairline crack in it





I bought 10 microswitches off the bay for £2 or so to see what could be fashioned to fit the existing ones as the switch is fine and the old arm comes out very easily.

I took the arms off a couple if these - they're a bit shorter than the original but it's only a cheap test to do anyway....



Interestingly the little cage that holds the arm will slide to come off....



After some trial and error, we have one that works just needs to be a little bigger overall for longevity but I'll keep working at it!





The final effort that works is on the left...

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For the Rothmans 924 it's MoT time soon so a couple of jobs were needed. Drivers side seatbelt had given up retracting so that was an easy fix.

The horn seems to be another matter though.... The Sparco steering wheel has a centre push which needed an earth that the PO hadn't wired in at all.... God knows how she got her MoT last time round!





All wired in properly and shrink wrapped


Down side is that now it's all connected, I can hear the horn relay switching but no horn... Fuse is all ok. Checked the relay which seemed past its best... Resoldered the connections but still no better.... Will get a new relay at Dubfreeze this weekend and will try again.

Took advantage of the steering wheel being off to look at the speedo as it will indicate the speed but the mileage does turn at all. What an absolute pita it was getting the binnacle out!

Today's office




Got the binnacle out and started to take the front off - looking at the bezel someone's had a go at this before!



Front off and internals out...







After winding it on manually and see the various cogs and gears turn it seems one tiny red cog had slipped along its shaft and was no longer being wound on... Slid it back out a touch and all looks good - Result





I though getting the binnacle out was a pita but getting it back was unreal! Took forever, mainly due to the speedo cable getting caught on the metalwork behind the dash :bang:

Got it all back in went for test drive and hurray the mileage now works.... But wait... No dash lights? Wtf? :bang: I think tomorrow may need some electrical know how![/quote]

For the 944 cab the rad fan switch had given up the ghost meaning the fans were running constantly.... A few quid later and a switch arrives....





Had to remove AFM, the bracket and coolant hoses to get access as the switch is underneath the large rad hose....





Needed a very deep 30mm socket to get the old one out and only used 28lb/ft on the torque wrench to tighten the new one up as I believe the threads can be damaged quite easily. Just a bit of reassembly....

Been busy Blackadder! Enjoying all the pictures.

I never had worked out how to open up the tach/speedo etc... I'd though that surround was plastic. Another job on the list.