Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

Hi Folks -

It's about time that I replaced the brake fluid and looking for advice as to how best to do the job. I know there are pressure kits that make it easier and also one-way valves available and of course the old dual pedal pusher/turn valve method. Mine is an S2 with dual valves per cylinder - any advice would be appreciated -

Thanks -

Dave
CT

I have one connected to my compressor... All done by air pressure that draws the fluid through the lines. One man, one way valve kits work as well.

Start off at the calliper furthest away from the master cylinder and work forwards. Don't forget to keep topping up the reservoir! Hope this helps

Thanks Blackadder - I do have a nice compressor but I only have the tyre valve link on the end of the hose (ie I can inflate my tyres!). What other fitment items do I need to successfully do the job and what is the procedure?

Thanks for your help -

Dave
CT

I have a brand new Draper brake bleeding kit which would run off your compressor. Looking to sell it together with some other tools when I sort them all out.
This one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-71205- ... SwnDxUp9g5

When changing brake fluid by pumping the brake pedal be very careful of pumping using the full stroke of the master cylinder. You can damage the seals by pumping them into a bit of the bore that it hasn't run over & also you can on some cars turn the seals inside out (Vauxhalls are one). Not uncommon to happen.

Hi Dave, eBay special not top notch workshop quality but for £12 or so it's a dream for the amount of time I use one.... and dead easy with standard quick release airline fitting....

Hi Dave

Even though I have a compressor I use one of these.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GUNSON-OFFER- ... SwKfVXK0-B
Works a treat and keeps the reservoir topped up.

Thanks chaps -

All advice noted - will let you know how I get on!

Dave
CT

Never had much success with either vacuum or pressure bleeders. The best way has always been the two man method. Or in my case one man and the wife in the drivers seat pushing the pedal..

start with the longest brake pipe first, LHD then the NS Rear Same for RHD NS rear

I had my S2 brake system as good as empty when I rebuilt the car and replaced all the pipes and hoses. With nothing in it, I found that neither pedal pumping nor vacuum bleeding would push/pull the fluid through. I even tried the two methods simultaneously and that didn't work either. In the end I dug out my Gunsons Eazibleed and connected it up to the spare tyre and that did the trick to fill the system. I then pedal pumped as a final bleed.

Did you pre prime the master cylinder ?

if its totally empty I normally do that to get it started

I've just done mine, I used a Sealey vacuum bleeder. 30 mins work and the pedal was rock solid. Bleeding the clutch master cylinder was a different story!

Hi, I use a pela oil extractor pump for bleeding brakes, clutches and getting old oil out of stuff etc. It sucks the fluid through the system bringing any air with it. I also use it to suck the old fluid out first before taking the brakes to bits. Lot less mess to deal with.

However for it to work well, take each bleed nipple out first, give it a good clean, then wrap a few turns of PTFE tape around the threaded part. Dab of grease then screw it back in. Then to bleed start with the nipple furthest from the master cylinder. Fit the tube from the pela pump, over the nipple. Then pump the extractor about ten times. Then open the bleed nipple 1/2 a turn and let the vacuum do its thing. Make sure you use a clear piece of plastic tube at the nipple end so you can see when the fluid runs clear with no bubbles. Once its running clear for a few seconds close the bleed nipple. Check the reservoir level. Go around the whole car twice. Pedal will be rock solid and the nipples won´t rust up too tight to undo again.

You can push, or pull. Pulling is the air line powered vacuum method. Problem is sucking air round bleeder threads, making it hard to see when brake system bled if air bubbles.

I am big fan of pressure bleeding using Motive Pressure Bleeder but there must be local equivalents. Very effective and fast. Don't pressurise above 15psi or you risk blowing seals in master cylinder. You can fill with fluid so no risk of level in reservoir dropping too low, or just pressurise reservoir with empty tank and keep eye on level as you go round car.

Thanks Stratford for your advice - I am also thinking of doing a refurbishment on the calipers - is there a OPC kit available to do this?

Dave
CT