Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

What amazes me is the problems simple parts have when compared with other manufacturers.
How hard can a pressure switch be to design?
Oilpumps relying on friction
Typical arrogant German design VE DO IT OUR VAY YAH.
Even balance shafts are an admission of defeat.
Reminds me of the Beetle, a horrid noisy slow car with glacial performance but a fanatical following.
On a daily basis I drive a fibreglass Quantum 2+2 and it feels far more sporty than the 944 though its clearly slower and with no breeding!............its a mongrel.

Series one, series one and a half, series two, my car has the oval dash, but the earlier drivetrain, I'm not really bothered which one it is, I just want to fix it !

I had a not dissimilar problem - in the end it was caused by the loctite sealant failing on the oil pump to crankcase joint. Its quite a long job to remove the oil pump but not particularly difficult. When I exposed to oil pump, oil was coming out around two of the bolts that hold it on- seal definitely gone. I took all the bolts out and the pump just fell off - all the sealant had just gone dark brown and very brittle. I suspect your pump is possibly loose or leaking because of similar seal failure. Does all the oil still run down over night/few days ? Still worth checking the OPRV first though - clarkes garage has a good section on it.

Thanx for that, just cant get my head around why it just " happened ". . . .Thinking about it tonight on my way home, before when I started it, the oil pressure jumped straight up, now it just rises, not really slow, but doesn't jump like before. So I,m thinking something is stuck/jammed/gummed up, I think a look at .he OPRV is in order, I have read you need a tool to re-align the valve, is this right, or would I be able to just ease it out, clean it and replace the bugger with-out to much trouble. . . . ,
thanx again,
Dave

It is a series two. There is no such thing as a series 1.5. It is relevant because the troublesome oil pressure relief valve was rectified in the series two redesign.

Still isn't helping me fix it !

I was getting random oil pressure readings (86 2.5 Lux) on mine. I removed the OPR valve and it was sticking so gave it a clean with GT85 (posh WD40) and changed the seals. Whilst there I noticed that the electrical connections to the Oil pressure sender were very corroded. So I replaced the connections of the end of the wires and cleaned up the ones on the sender. Works as expected now.

You could also have suspect electrical connections at the gauge in your binnacle. Cleaning up the binnacle connections also solved my 'running hot' issue.

Thank you, so did you have to use any sort of lining up tool, or did you just " plop " it back in so to speak, Im also wondering if the wire connecter got caught when the covers came of. . . .
thanks again
Dave

You only need the alignment tool if you are removing the housing, if just taking out the OPR valve there is no need to use alignment tool.

The OPR valve and Oil pressure sender are seperate units, the former is purely a relief valve no electrical connections. The Pressure sender is what provides the signal to the guage, this to could be the root of your issue.

That's champion, I understand the OPRV is just that, a valve to regulate oil pressure, but It wouldn't be impossible for the wire to the pressure switch, could get " nudged" if you like, the car has no symptoms of low oil pressure, no tappet noise or rattles, knocks or bearing noises, but I,m old school, and like to drive on the info in front of me, so its easy to get a bit paranoid. . .!.
If I get a chance I,ll check it tmorro, and let you no how I get on, cheers again,
Dave

What tickover cold? What oil
pressure at tickover warm, and how does it alter as you slowly increase the revs? Remote diagnosis is extremely difficult and impossible without information.

On start-up, pressure goes up steadily to about 4/4.5 bar, It used to jump straight up, on driving, it settles to about 3.5, then as it warms up, you can see it dropping of until it gets to just over 2, and stays there. I have 10/40 semi synthetic oil, changed about 800 miles ago, with a new Mann and Hummel filter. At tickover when warm, its just over 2, But like I have said, I cant understand why it just dropped off after the belt was fitted. It was fine before, with the way it doesn't jump up when starting from cold, I,m assuming something is sticking, that's why I asked about the OPRV, it seems logical that if it was sticking, open, it wouldn't let the oil pressure build up as quickly.
I,m no expert, but I have worked in the motor trade for the last 26years,s, so Im not alien to engines. . . .
Dave

Is it possible that the wiring has been disturbed? Not the 924/944/968s strongpoint even when new and earth and continuity problems are common. Had you considered swapping the oil pressure sender too?

TLDR: does turning on the fan or lights affect the oil pressure, temperature etc readings?

It doesn't appear so, I had a look yesterday, wires on to the sender look fine, I would have thought , with the pressure being steady ( if a bit low ) when warm, It doesn't point to the wires , but I no these cars have, err strange tendencies, turning the heater on, lights etc, makes no difference.
The pressure sender is on my mind, But again, I would have thought the readings would be all over the place or just not at all, . I do think its a pressure problem, but I don't think its engine related ( IE big ends, mains etc etc.) as the pressure was ok, it just dropped all of a sudden.
I,m going to order new O rings for the OPRV, at least then I can take it out and not have to worry about the rings being damaged or just worn out.,
The car drives fine, like I have said before, If oil pressure was low, I would have thought I would have at least heard the Tappets complaining, or am I being a bit thick on that front,
cheers
Dave

Get the oil pressure checked with a proper mechanical gauge before you start taking it to bits.