Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

Based on feed back of many experienced guys on here and rennlist I have ordered my self a new bosche crank trigger sensor ..The flywheel housing 1....
Just got the stress of dissemble and re set up to look forward too , general feedback it they corrode and can be brittle / troublesome to fix .....oh joy !

Apply above statement to all component parts of a 944..and you can't go far wrong..!

What brand is the rotor arm? I have seen many cheap arms fail in this way and even been stranded on a roundabout during rush hour as a result of this, and that was with a new arm.

Before condemning anything I would check for a spark when the misfire when the cutting out occurs. If you were closer I'd have said that you could use my clip on spark tester. It has been invaluable to me on a number of occasions, even if I did buy it secondhand from the 'states. It can easily help to rule out a coil, dizzy/coil issue and plug lead problem.

When you do go to change the flywheel reference sensor, plug all the bellhousing holes with rags before you start...

It's not much fun dropping a hex bit into the bellhousing, when you've just finished an engine swap & the last thing you want is to have to remove the gearbox, torque tube & bellhousing.... (...I might have some experience of this )

Before you do this, check the plugs. I wondered if it might be the DME temp sensor as others have mentioned. If it is, it will have been running very rich & the plugs will be v black. It's a cheaper (and easier) job than the reference sensor

Again thank you for all the info..
Dme temp sensor is approx 3 moths old .. and the exhaust smells clean as a whistle ... ticks over perfect ...
I'm all ears on any tips reference flywheel timing sensor ..
It's here now ,so gonna be fitting over next few days

Stick a 1p on the end push it in carefully mark where it stops, take it back out remove the 1p that should be the correct air gap when you slide it back in to your mark

With any luck the sensor can be removed without loosening / removing the bracket. If the bracket doesn't move, shouldn't it just be a straight swap (no need to adjust the gap)? AFAIK there's no adjustment on the sensor itself as the retaining screw holds it tight into the bracket.

Removing the bracket on an S2 needs the bellhousing to be loosened off, unless someone has cut a notch in it previously. (well I couldn't find a way to do it..)

I had this problem recently on my S2 - turned out to be a slipped cam belt. I guess when it was cold the belt was ok but as it warmed up, the slackness became apparent and stalled the engine.

I had the belt re-set and no damage done...

Dave
CT

Well that was fun ..lol...
After looking on you tube listening to you guys I felt armed and ready ....and to be honest it was not too bad ...
I thought there was 2 sensors on my S2 next to each other .here is not ....weird ....
Getting the old sense out was long winded due to trying get it out of the housing rather than just pulling the sensor and carrier in 1 ...
In the end I un bolted ... removed ...placed in vice and just drilled and picked the old unit out ...hour n half done ....
Placed a 0.8mm washer on end of the new sensor , snugger it up to the ring gear ....bolted up adjusters ..removed sensor ..removed washer .....started car ☺☺☺...
What a noise !!! It was catching the flywheel ...oops.
Took it out changed to a 1.2mm washer ...perfect all done .. what a wicked car these S2 are ..
Happy days ... cheers guys

Just wondering how thick a 1p is, time to get the measuring stick out

Only 1 sensor on the S2