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 Post subject: fuel pipe replacement
PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 7:01 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 17, 2015 8:16 am
Posts: 50
TIPEC membership: 7440
what a nightmare job this is turning into, but done just in time.....when i cut through the pressure and return pipes under the fuel tank, it took hardly any movement before the pipes broke off at the saddle/pipe clip just above the torsion tube (the inaccessible clip)

i then cut thro the pipes where they turn at 45deg under the floor
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my intention was to get some hoses made up to run from there back to the tank area....has anyone been able to do this without dropping the torsion tube...i just don't think there's enough room for fittings to pass over the torsion tube.

i could just run the hoses under the torsion tube, but they'd be vulnerable...??

i'm now thinking of getting some 3/8" o/d and 5/16" o/d (if they're available) cupro-nickel tube to basically replace the corroded steel section i removed....any help/ideas gratefully rec'd


i also made the mistake of cutting thro the hose where the fuel return pipe joins onto....the hose that disappears upwards somewhere??.....is that hose either of these
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or do i need to remove this cover to get at the other end of that hose
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 Post subject: Re: fuel pipe replacement
PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 9:09 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 18, 2012 7:26 am
Posts: 533
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Hi Adrian, yes you can get the rubber and fitting above torque tube without dropping it. Its tight but doable.
I only had to thread one hose and fitting round as the other, the return was open ended. It attaches in the second of your pictures large hose in the middle. If you are replacing this make sure you drill a hole through the existing hose and attach stout cord to help feed the new hose back up, even then it was a struggle and had to use a bendable rod to help thread it round tight radius. Simon


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 Post subject: Re: fuel pipe replacement
PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2015 6:36 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 17, 2015 8:16 am
Posts: 50
TIPEC membership: 7440
well, i decided to fit kunifer tube to replace the corroded steel, i used stainless Swagelock twin-olive unions to mate to the steel tubes, used a Swagelock hose barb fitting for the other end of the return hose and put a flare on the other end of the supply pipe to mate up with the original hose (which goes onto the filter)....like this
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flare was a bit difficult to get right, WD40 on die and a bit of hair dryer heat on end of pipe

also sleeved both pipes where they went over the t-bar
seems to be ok


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