Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

My 2.5 engine has done 165k so a little noise is expected but the tick on light throttle has got to the point of worry, so I have taken the cam carrier off to inspect said noise.
I am surprised that there seems very little wear and all seems fine however the tappets all seem solid and I was expecting them to be sprung. Have they all seized and what should I be looking for please?

Hi

My tappets have been silenced by the use of Forte engine flush. Some people are sceptical about the use of flushes.

They are on offer amongst the servicing menus of one of the top Porsche specialist.

It costs about £15.

regards

Mark

I used Wynns lifter fix stuff with reasonable success, ran if for about 300 miles then changed the oil been pretty quiet ever since

You can also use new ones from an Audi A100 they are the same dimensions and you can pick up a set off eBay for about £45 for 16

Waylander are the tappets for the Audi the same for a 944 s2?

regards

Mark

Yup they are all the same as far as I know

Thanks for the info.
Waylander I might owe you a beer or three

My car sometimes has been difficult to start particularly when warm and though reasonable on performance I have seen it as a nice but mediocre performer.
It is just possible that the tappets have not helped and maybe a flushng oil would free them (three are seized) it is likely that the plastic seal inside the tappets has degraded due to time and the fact that the car is rarely driven hard.
So a new set of Audi ones is the way for me as Porsche prices are ridiculously high.
I will also remove the head and refurb that and give it a light skim.
Recently I carried out a compression test and 2 cylinders were 185 and 2 were less so can only improve things.

Cheers
Jon

If it's hard to start when hot I would take a guess at the return valve in the fuel pump, another cheap part.

These cars use a retained pressure fuel rail to stop the fuel boiling in the injectors when the engine is hot, if the valve in the pump is worn and letting the pressure drop off to fast the fuel vaporises in the injectors

Never seen a seized hydraulic lifter, seen quite a few blocked or worn, you can strip them and clean them out, long job on 8 total ass on 16

They don't have any seals inside just springs and ball valves

Like these eBay 361342314530

Thanks I will check that too.
The tappets on Ebay are for Audi 80 and are 35mm dia x 26 and 944 ones are 38mm dia x 32 so I will check those Audi 100 ones out.

I looked at the three that seem not to work and they do not spring like the others and appear solid.
They are stagged on assembly so dismantling does not look possible.

Perhaps soaking in a powerful flushing/cleaning oil would work.

Thought they were 36mm or is that just the 16v motors?.

They should not spring at all as far as I know once filled with oil they are solid

Google stripping and cleaning 944 lifters, there are a few videos and photos and instructions to be found

I think the 16V lifters are different to the 8V ones, but not sure. The 16V ones can be replaced by these:

Meyle 100 109 0027
034 109 309 N or AD - VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda
1 669 765 - Ford
9186568 - Volvo

Their dimensions are:
26mm height
35mm width OD

Typically used in:
Audi 100 (4A, C4) (12/90-11/94)
Audi 100/200 (44, 44Q, C3) (08/82-12/91)
Audi 80 (8C, 8G7, B4) (05/91-08/00)
Audi 80/90 (81, 85, B2) (08/78-10/88)
Audi 80/90 (89, 89Q, 8A, B3) (06/86-12/96)
Audi A3 (8L1) (09/96-05/03)
Audi A4 (8D2, 8D5, B5) (11/94-09/01)
Audi A6 (4A, C4) (06/94-12/97)
Audi A6 (4B, C5) (01/97-01/05)
Audi A8 (4D2, 4D8) (03/94-12/02) - And a bunch of other cars too...

Yep 16 valvers are smaller and the large 8 valve ones are hideous price, and just been on Utube and seen a video to clean the little chaps and as the car is a toy I will take my time.

Learning how and why is all part of the classic car game.

I know its easy to go straight to Utube but here is a mine of knowledge that is so valuable.

I hate buying a part for £££ when the same part with VW on it is much cheaper.

I am now wiser than 3 days ago ............I think

I know im telling an engineer how to suck eggs, but make sure they go back in the same holes they came out of

Thanks, yes I dont mind reminding about basics as sometimes we all forget and wonder why it went wrong.

I may be an engineer but I knew nothing about hydraulic tappets as to how they work until this week as I have only worked on much older motors till now.

I am expecting to find a loose valve seat insert when I remove the head because I really dont think the lifters are faulty because they are so simple.

Some years ago I had a TR4 which ticked a bit and finally fired on 3 and that had a loose seat.

Just a thought, but I wonder if the lifter mechanism is the similar or even the same between the 8v and 16v and just the lifter body is different?.. If someone has both lying around it would be great if this could be checked

That was as long as the 8v lifter body wearing face is serviceable, just the internals could be swapped out for new from an aftermarket 16v lifter...

As life's never simple I'm probably way off with this idea though!

Hi all

It's unlikely that the body itself is worn, the usual cause for stuck lifters is the varnish substance that builds up over a period of time. This can be cleaned by a suitable flush designed for the job such as the one by Forte but if all else fails a complete stripdown and clean of each lifter should do the job. As mentioned there are video's on youtube that help with this..

Pete