Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

Hi guys

whilst my front calipers are away for powder coat, I set about changing my rear brake hoses very rusty.

the near side went on without drama, the drivers side rear has become a nightmare!

the inboard solid pipe union rounded off and at this juncture, to a insult to injury, I attempted to remove the whole of this pipe from the bottom position on the distribution block the pipes to this block all look a little fragile and subsequently this union has also fractured the pipework.

I think ideally I should redo all the pipes from the distribution block, the pipe particularly to the near side rear looks difficult to replace.

Any advice on how I should proceed with this one? I will have to do the work myself.
As funds are low at the moment.
regards

Mark

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Cupro-Nickel-Kun ... 0488471584

+
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEALEY-AK5063 ... 1e8703ac2c

+
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-Mini-pipe ... 27e9956b90

+ these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Male-10mm- ... 25944c5ee0

It's easy enough to do. That flaring tool works fairly well for the price. I have the Mastercool kit which is better but more expensive.

I re-did the hard pipes on both my rears but had an arse of a job getting the flare nuts apart.

If, like me, you realise there's no saving the pipework then just chop it in the middle and get the caliper off to work on it - it's so much easier!

I had to use a lot of heat on my inboard flare nuts (hard to flexy joint) but if you're careful you can do it without shagging the rubber pipe. Likewise don't be tempted to try to ease the flare nut out of the caliper without using heat to loosen the joint. DAMHIKT.

Invest in a brake pipe flaring tool - I got a kit like this which gave me the right flare nuts and enough copper pipe to do everything on both sides - twice! I also re-did the link pipes on two of my calipers. The flare tool gave me some slightly eccentric mushrooms but despite not looking as uniform as the factory item they've held hydraulic pressure ok.

You need to think about routing the copper pipe around the trailing arm - leave yourself plenty of extra length for the kinks and bends you'll need to make to get around the casting and for the final bend into the caliper. Put the flare nuts on before bending and flaring lol...

It's not difficult - I'd not done it before and it was a relatively easily achieved objective.

Good luck!

Forgot to say - don't try to get the flare nuts out with a normal open ended spanner, there's too great a risk of rounding the nuts - look for a proper flare nut spanner, I think it's a 12mm and they're about a fiver from Halfords...

Thanks for the replies, I have a better feeling about this now.

Did you guys fit the replacement pipes that link each flexible hose to the distribution block, it looks difficult as they run up and over the rear beam.

Also the distribution block as I call it was once upon a time bolted to the car this fastener has rusted through.

Can I reuse this block also.

thanks for the help gents keep it coming.

regards

Mark

Hi just done mine the rear flex pipes are so cheap you may as we'll cut them out and you cann buy the 3 way union for a few pounds. Heat on callipers is not great I used a 11mm socket with a 3/8 drive and shocked it with a gentle tap . I would not use copper here I no there are a lot of threads about this but copper nickel is best if you are on a budget most small garages will make you up pipes for not much Money cheaper than a flaring kit as the cheap ones are rubbish .cooper needs to be fixed in more locations than the original steel and there is not much room without dropping the rear beam.
Brian

I need to do mine over the winter period but I will be using braided hoses, no need for flaring tools and trying to get nice bends,very easy to make yourself and cheap too,a good site for all your braking needs is car builder solutions based in kent.

mmm guys... Just in case anyone is tempted. I have looked back over previous threads about reworking rear brake lines as I was sure there was an advisory from Jon about using stainless braided flexi at the rear......

Sure enough found this http://forums.tipec.net/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=14627&p=93440&hilit=+rear+flexi#p93440

Words of wisdom:

Makes sense to me. Cheers all

Rob

Guys have you done all pipework associated with the rear including over the rear beam as this is what i am going to have to do.
I dont want to drop the beam.

Can anyone point me out where i can buy a distribution block (i beleive it is a three way female).

Any help with these finer details would be great

Automec supply parts do complete brake line kits but not all the right length your opc have them at £22

When I did mine I replaced every line except the ones that go over the rear beam, these I just painted
I really regret this now, in fact I removed them this weekend and am awaiting new ones from Porsche there is NO way t fit these without dropping the rear beam......guess what I'm doing next weekend Again

This may lay my car up for a while, how much were the new pipes ken?

Either side of the T block are £38 Each I also replaced the one that goes front to back in fact I have now replaced every one on the car

Dropping the rear beam is not that hard .....As long as you can get the 2 bolts undone that go through the beam hanger brackets everything else is straight forward

Hi All

Having soberly assed and the job and seeking advice from you guys I have bought a reasonable flaring tool and 11mm flare spanner, fittings and cunifer. I think that it is possible to satisfactorily refit the lot in situ.

I will keep you all posted.

regards

Mark

Regarding the flexible brake pipes. Maybe I am missing the point but surely the flexis still twist to a dagree on the front. After all one union is effectively turning when the other is staying still on the chassis of the car.

On my last S2 which had braided hoses all round the rears were fine with over 10k worth of use on them. Plus the quality of recent rubber hoses in the aftermarket world (This may not be a problem with a 944) leaves little to be desired (on my daily I ended up changing the second flexi within the year).

I have now replaced all the rear pipework from the middle of the underside of the car to both rear flexis.
Thanks for all the advice everyone.

I bought a new flaring tool from sealey as suggested and a 25 foot roll of kunifer.

I took the old runs out and to measure them accurately passed a fine wire through each one and cut straight lengths an put the male fittings on.

The longest run (which I thought would be a nightmare) I just bent it roughly into shape with over the transmission tunnel, connected the male union into the flexy and gently forged the correct shape with my hands following the correct path until the union offered up naturally to the tee piece.

It even clipped back nicely into the original clips.

Well chuffed! And now have another quality tool as well!