Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

Only took the wheels off to bleed the brake fluid afresh, found not one pad wear indicator fitted on all four calipers.

plenty of meat on the rear pads but front wafer thin.

youve guest it i could not remove them off wth the calipers and discs.

So new discs pads sort out the plate lift may as well fit new covers and flexi hose. Not to forget wear indicators.

Still smiling, actually quite enjoyed myself.

I never bothered with wear indicators as I kept an eye on the pad depth. Plate lift does seem to be a major issue with the Brembos. I do have a kit of plates here if anyone wants to buy them.

just had same issue.....

8 M6 SS bolts £2.19
8 Mondeo bleed nipples £11.98
Pad wear sensors £6.99 each
all on ebay.... I'll see if I can find the links....

Once you've managed to get the button head bolts out I'd personally not bother replacing with stainless ones... I replaced mine with high tensile black steel ones - it's not going to cause any more corrosion than the stainless ones but at least you'll be able to get them out next time without chewing the heads up ...

Interesting thought Greggers - What's the best source for black high tensile ones?

I got mine from AllFix - cost me about 70p for 20, but google for fastener suppliers and you'll find one on your local industrial estate..
G

Hi Jim,

I might be interested in those plates if they are for a S2?.

Donald

99% sure that all the Porsche Brembo's use the same plates, I'll hunt them put & have a look.

I would be careful here. I would at the very least want treated bolts here. The black bolts seem to have poor protection from rust IME. I know since I bought a fair few of them from my local fastening place before I thought twice about what I bought (i.e; bolts which have been treated well.

Hi all thanks for the replies,

I need your advice to move on, my local garage has manage to get 3 bolts of one caliper and only one off the other.

They do not want to go any further with them and are not charging me for work so far.

I have not got a great deal of money to throw at these calipers at the moment.

I am quite happy to do any work once all bolts are out.

Any ideas?

Mark

The bodge to do would be to refit the lot back up again. To refit the pads you would grind the backing plates off the pads down so as to fit them. Of course the corrosion will get worse.

An alternative would be (but costly) to get some exchange callipers and fit those on. I know a specialist once told me that most of the callipers he had seen with plate lift were not much better elsewhere upon further inspection. I was once told that callipers from a Boxster would fit and come without the plate lift issues. Whether this is true I cannot say for sure.

I guess the alternative would be to see if another garage can do the work but labour costs may soon rise depending on how bad things are with the remaining bolts (although you do now have 5 left to deal with).

send them to me and i will remove the rest of the screws. i just literally did a full set of 16 screws for another customer on here. all came out with no drama. takes approx 45mins per 4 screws, i charge £30 per 4 screws.

can supply new screws aswell.

if you want more information drop me an email info@nicksonmotorsport.co.uk

(btw, 100% use stainless screws to replace, mild steel will still corrode, and the steel is to soft and will fall apart leaving a snapped stud in the ally caliper housing, which will be a nightmare to remove as extractors usually slip in the soft steel when only 6mm diameter due to very small extractor tooling. this means studs would need to be drilled out and tapped, which will get very expensive!! getting the stainless screws out is usually not to bad a job, if you know how to attack it! if you dont, then it can take days lol!)

thanks
nick

I did these Calipers for a forum member they are quite easy to do yourself
I used high tensile steel bolts .......I see little difference between these and stainless

Agree that mild steel should not be used

As I originally said, high tensile (I.e. quite hard) steel fasteners were what I used . The problem doesn't come from the steel rusting, but the aluminium oxide (the powdery white stuff) that results from the galvanic incompatibility of steel and aluminium. Its going to happen whether you use stainless or steel fasteners, but a steel fastener won't get chewed up like the stainless ones you've tried to remove already.

Your choice of course...

G

the plate lift itself is caused by incompatible metals your right.

high tensile steel is still a ferrous metal, so it will go rusty, which means you will end up with a screw head that turns into a pile of rust, which will be literally impossible to remove, as rust is very hard and you wont be able to drill it out without great difficulty.

the head will literally corrode away or swell up into a big furry pile of rust which which just break away as you try to remove the screw. leaving nothing to grip on.

so you will have more of a problem than you had before. at least the stainless screws dont corrode away! plus they are easy enough to get out anyway with the right approach and tools.

stainless steel is a high tensile steel, so your basically saying, replace the high tensile stainless bolts, with high tensile steel bolts, which will rust, when the stainless ones wont! your just giving yourself more chance of not being able to remove them in 5 years time, when you strip them down and see the screw heads are a big pile of rust and no chance of getting any sort of tooling to grip on them, and no chance of drilling them because solid rust really doesnt drill very well!

brembo used stainless plates and screws for a reason! to avoid rust. both metals will corrode where they meet with the aluminium, but the stainless heads at least stay in tact!

i would change them back to stainless if i were you, i promise you they are the best design for the job, and there are not usually any issues getting them out with the right tools.

rusty bolts are the worst bolts to remove, and high tensile bolts WILL go rusty over time.

i have removed hundreds of stainless screws from these calipers with no issues whatsoever so no need to change the type of screws used.