Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

That is an understatement Nick..those welds are terrible for such a safety related device.

Yours on the other hand..... quality!

I bet you are sooooo glad you decided to replace the cage, you just can't take chances and cut corners with safety on the track.

Good luck with this project.

unfortunately i see this kind of welding and poor fitting cages all to often in motorsport!

i have been scrutineer in a few disciplines of motorsport, and the sort of stuff i saw on a regular basis was crazy!

i will be using the highest quality light weight t45 tube, made to conform with BS4T45 to BS5T100 in accordance with BS6S100 Condition.

there are many fabricators out there that will use sub standard cheap t45 that isnt produced to meet the above conditions, and isnt real t45. the problem is ''real'' t45, costs a hell of a lot, approx £35 per meter, which adds up to a few quid when installing a comprehensive cage. i would say 25 meters will go into this car!

looking forward to getting stuck into some more serious fabrication work on the shell.

thanks for the information on the rear trailing arms simon.
thats good news, as worst case i can just swap hubs if there r any issues with wheel fitment using the wider track hubs currently fitted to my arms.

i like the interchangeability of these cars! was very surprised to see the shafts bolt up to the ally arms and g31 gearbox!

should have some spring plates to offer up on wednesday to ensure the ally arms are all good to go!

for anyone interested, the majority of parts i will be replacing in this build, and so i will have lots of parts available for sale from this car.

i will make a list soon of parts available, but if there is anything that you need, let me know.

many thanks
nick

how much is a new windscreen? forgot there was a hammer in the shell, rolled it over, and smashed the screen! whoops!

I do have another one in the 944t shell, but might be hassle getting it out in one piece.
i assume they are the same?

The recessed screens used to be about £100. 937s should have a flush fitting screen though, similar to the type that they introduced in the 1986 series two 944.

If your fitter is careful you can fit an early screen dressed out on layers of adhesive saving you the extra £150-odd.

that's good, just checking they are still readily available!

the old cage is now out. discovered some more shocking welding on the bits you cant get to easily. you would usually drop the cage through the floor to weld the tops. it doesn't look like that was done! it actually looks like the tube used was t45, by the way it looks on the inside, and the way it grinds/cuts. that's a big shame, as there is a few quids worth of tube there, and someone has made a pigs ear of installing the cage!

I will keep some of the straight bits for stock. the rest will go in the skip







how people think its acceptable to install a cage with welding like that is beyond me.
glad to see the back of that!

Id guess that they should have cut holes in the floor (and not where the feet will rest!) to allow the tubes to drop through giving proper all-round access to weld?

How often do people actually do that though? You cant see between the hoop top and the roof panels and scrutes dont look (on the whole), so I suspect that more cars are like this than not: even those from prep firms that you have heard of.

Looked at the pictures - posted - then read the post.

Just thought I'd let you know that the CSCC has changed the rules slightly for turbo car eligibility for 2014. Pre 1988 models with 2 valves per cylinder will now get a turbo equivalence of x1.4 (rather than x1.7). Post 1 Jan 1988 cars and all 4 valve per cylinder turbo cars will retain the x1.7 equivalency.

I hope that encourages you to think about CSCC Future Classics or Modern Classics in the future! A 924T will now be considered to have a capacity of 2.8 litres, as opposed to 3.4 so this will put it into the up to 3 litres class and hopefully make it, relatively, more competitive.

getting serious now!

trying to get as much weight from the shell as possible. want this car mega light!

next move is to remove the structural crossmembers that go across the car. these will be replaced with lightweight tubular t45 which will be much stronger, and much lighter. the rear void will house lightweight small ally tank, and removable panels will be used so that access to all items is much easier/gearbox removal etc will be very simple.

big rear arches are also on the way which will allow most of the rear 1/4 metal to be removed to further save weight.

more gone!



note the shell is no longer on the rollover spit while removing this material as I don't want it sagging. shell is on tressle stands right under the floor, so there is no stress on the area with the material removed. the shell is very strong with large chassis rails running right through the car. tbh the shell is so rigid you could put it back on the jig as it is and I guarantee it wouldn't flex. I can lift the back of the car by the jig and there is no flex whatsoever. these shells really are over engineered and very heavy in comparison to other cars.

longitudinally the shell is still 100% solid. the only structure I have removed has been transverse bracing which will be put back into the shell with t45 tubes which are much stronger than what has been removed, and can be incorporated into the rollcage to tie it all together.

next part of the job is a bit more long winded. need to pick off all the spot welds that are holding the flanges on now. I just wanted to get rid of the majority of the material, and then it makes access etc much easier to pick the left overs off.

then I can start bending up the main hoop, rear legs, and cross bracing to make the rear end solid again, then can start thinking about closing in the seat squab area and reinforcing the rear strut mounts. need a fuel tank soon so I can mount that in the rear, and then its just a case of closing the area in around the tank.

951 intercooler has turned up today so will be mounting that soon. does it matter which way the air flows through this intercooler? as I think it will work better upside down so the inlet/outlet point in a more suitable direction and airflow is smoother!

Looks daunting but I do this kind of thing every day. Will all be filled and twice as strong/much lighter soon as I get holdnof a tank. Next job is fitting arches.