Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

Hi everyone,

I'm going to have a go at doing my engine mounts this weekend. I've read Haynes and Clarks but these are for left-hand drive cars. I was wondering if anyone has any hints, tips or advice on changing them on right-hand drive cars. Is it necessary to undo the steering shaft? Is it better to do both at once while the cross-member is lowered? Any help greatly appreciated.

All the best,

Andy.

My advice is get someone else to do them.

Seriously though yes you drop the cross member after disconnecting steering shaft. Do them both at the same time. As far as I know there are 2 types buy the OEM quality part as the copies tend to fail quickly.

Its one of those jobs where they can drop in to place and all line up fine, or it can take hours.

All the best

Rich

I'd agree with Richy, it's an easy job on a ramp but would be a royal PITA on jacks on the drive. The X Member needs lowering to give clearance & it's Very tight on the O/S, I gave mine to Northways to do.

Is it shakin' like a good 'un then? (the engine I mean!)

If the mounts are stuffed the engine doesn't shake, because it's solid & sat on the chassis rails. Mine actually caused vibration up through the steering wheel.

Vibration is like sort of very fast shaking That's the technical answer that is

Thanks for those replies.

It does shake/vibrate a bit, but the main reason I'm changing the mounts is because I've had this annoying rattle on a trailing throttle. So I'm hoping this is the cause and yes, I'm afraid the old jacks are coming out again on my driveway.
Also, I'd already bought non-oem mounts as they were £70 a pair, whereas oem ones were £100 each. But having done a search I notice Lindsey racing do oem mounts for about £50 each. So if mine don't last long at least I know were to go next.

All the best,

Andy.

The way to check if they're knackered is to measure the distance from the top to the bottom of the mounts, i.e. how compressed the rubbers are. My nearside one was shot, so we replaced both. I looked around, did the research, and bought OEM from USA for £80 the pair, delivered. It hasn't stopped the vibration. I get it at 1600 and then 3100 - 3400 revs, but I can only feel it through the gear stick. Everything, balance shafts etc, is set up right, but the engine still vibrates. I think it is the clutch or the release bearing or something to do with the whole clutch package that is vibrating. The clutch is the original one and has done 178000 to date. I'm just telling you this before you waste time and money changing the wrong thing.

Please keep us updated.

Hi everyone,

Well, I found doing the mounts themselves weren't to much of a problem, but taking the steering shaft off and on has been an absolute nightmare. I've obviously not got it back on correctly as I've now got tight spots on the steering. Also the rattle is still there, so its been a rather fruitless exercise. My one crumb of comfort is that it now runs quite smoothly. So tommorow I'll try fiddling about with the shaft and I think the rattle may be the heat shield touching down somewhere. But for now I'll go and commiserate over a couple of beers.

All the best,

Andy

You are saying the steering has got tight spots has one of the uj's on the steering seized. This is a very common problem especially if the mounts have collapsed as it fries them!

Hi everyone,

I've sorted the steering shaft now, the bottom joint wasn't on fully, so my steering's back to normal.
I also took off the heat shield to see if this was creating my rattle, it wasn't. So as to the cause of my rattle, I've now ruled out as well as the engine mounts, cam followers, and cam belt flapping against the case. I'm now out of ideas, so if anyone knows what would cause a rattle on a trailing throttle I'd love to hear from you.

All the best,

Andy.