Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

But £1.06 for super unleaded?

Oh I don’t put super in it all the time, just a waste of good fuel for shopping and dump runs

The DME / Motronic / ECU or whatever the hell anyone wants to call it, is designed to map for the crap fuel all over the world, and ultimate performance is not needed in Tesco’s car park


For those that need clarification
Bosch Motronic 3.1 engine management system

Ah but, old Porker fuel systems are susceptible to the high levels of ethanol in ordinary unleaded.
It was suggested that the failed O ring on my FPR was caused by running it on unleaded. There was no sign of pinching on the ring which ruled out insertion ham fistedness.

I have never experienced pre-ignition, pinking or any other combustion issues, nor have my plugs come out suggesting that the engine runs lean, rich or hot with SuL.

Consider that a lot of NOS components may contain old rubber/rubber composite technology.

My Porker runs much better on SuL, I suppose if you were to be prudent, a tune to mitigate the higher RON?

Ah but I have replaced everything with new Porsche hoses and lines and the FPR and according to Porsche it’s all good for up to 15% ethanol

So at 5% I should be fine.

So you liked the Alu clean then, if you start on the engine it’s a slippery slope

Day 16.

Cleaned up the torque tube to box 'cowling'.





I did something very silly. I ordered rear drop links and anti-roll bar bushes. I don't know if i'll get as far as dropping the transaxle and if I do, it will be 51rider's fault.

I fitted the engine harness and got it through the bulkhead. Did some provisional pinging to ascertain speed and crank shaft sensors as they weren't marked in any way.
Carried out the adaptation to the bell housing.
This allows future clutch replacement without removing the sensors and makes it easier to gap them. The gap can remain the same. You don't have to lift the bracket off to do the clutch.





[My wall used to be white]





Tomorrow is another day and more waiting for bits...

9 Apart told me Porsche is 'shut' and nothing is coming through.
Did you manage to order that heat shield H?

Yes, I like the Alu clean and only wish I had used it when the engine was half stripped.
But I don't want it too pristine - I like driving it all year round.

I don't know if i'll get as far as dropping the transaxle and if I do, it will be 51rider's fault.

Oh dear, I sense I could be in trouble again Won't be the first time!

I did something very silly. I ordered rear drop links and anti-roll bar bushes.

A bit of mission creep perhaps - or just a case of, whilst I'm here I might as well.........?

So which ally cleaner did you go for-results look really good.

No, not ordered the replacement heat shield yet as I assumed that Porsche was shut (although I understand they are servicing key worker vehicles but for how long if Germany is not shipping out spares/parts?) I'm tempted to try a couple of the specialist breakers but even they don't seem to list them on their various evilbay outlets.

Didn't use any Alu cleaner on the bell housing BTW.

Waylander's recommendation:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminium-cl ... Swc-tY736m

The heat shield; you'll just have to wait.
I have the same one - it was slightly ropey, so i painted it with black, matt UHT paint.
I can take a pic of it if you want
Have you tried 9 Apart: 01706 824053 ?

I'll let you know about the mission creep. I'll see (after a good night's sleep).

I was also looking at Cunifer copper nickel brake lines and kits

Get in the habit of making your own pipes, the two short ones down the trailing arms are £180 from Porsche
Make them yourself for about £4, some adhesive lined shrink wrap is a good investment so you can make the pipes look original

I worked it all out for someone once a few years ago, a full set for the car is about £1400

Waylander wrote:Get in the habit of making your own pipes...

That's exactly what I intend to do.
Off hand, what type of flaring is deployed?

I would like the specific flaring tool instead of buying a whole kit.

Lots of different flares are used, single, double, concave

You need the whole kit, and a straightener and a bender, and if you get the bigger Sykes kit you can do fuel lines too, 8mm and 10mm

I did look at that Sykes Piickavant kit.
But I also figured that a hand held tool would be useful to get the pipes over the transaxle before adding the unions for example.

You can never have enough tools, there is always something to make life easier

I had a rash moment -hadn't done my research properly and ended up needing to replace the hard lines that Martin refers to.
For less than the cost of one replacement hard line I was able to buy all the necessary tools and materials and then make up my own.
This wasn't a one time thing either - ended up making a replacement line at the front into the ABS unit and have just recently remade the caliper link pipes- these are I think £90 each!

All the lines I have made thus far are 4.75DIN flares.

I can't work out how to do the link thing properly so will send you a PM with what I use.

I'd appreciate that.

Thanks ~H.