What have I done now....

[Rhett]

More painted bits:

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[Rhett]

When I first thought about this project, I had (in my mind) compared it to my last restoration - my '88 944S. However, the reality of this one is completely different. This poor old car has been somewhat abused during its life, as I am coming across many 'bodges' , something that I did not come across with the 944. The first 'modification from the norm' was a wire from the engine temp sender back to the DME, it was a real poor example of wiring and whoever did it drilled a hole in the firewall just where the water runs away, so had created a leak point....not too good.

The next 'engineering bypass' was the starter motor. This has a cracked nose casing, so someone fitted it with an oversize bolt and a collection of nuts. Getting that lot off was near impossible with spanners, so I gave up and broke out the grinder.. :

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Won that battle...

The next 'non-standard option' is the removal of the steering rack oil cooler from behind the front valance, someone has just cut it out and stuck in a bit of rubber (which was kinked to crimp - so very poor flow) and some jubilee clips...

steering rack cooler - not.jpg (109.75 KiB) Viewed 14227 times

Just as well I have a spare in the garage.

The fuel pipes have been 'uniquely re-designed' at the rear, I will take photos once I get to them. Lots of rubber hose and jubilee clips again - not really a good idea on a high pressure FI system.

Then I discovered that the steering pump body is also cracked:

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Again, just as well I have a spare.

I am sure I will find one or two more 'technical gems' as I continue the stripdown. Watch this space....

[Pete82]

madness, just pure madness what some people do with cars. I've seen my fair share of stuff people have done, bought cars with bolts for the brake calipers missing, subframe bolts loose.

Glad to see this one's landed with someone who will take good care of it

[Rhett]

Jumping ahead here a bit...hit a bit of a problem . While I was loosening the cylinder head fixings today I managed to shear the head off one of the allen head bolts. The other (longer) one was a real pain too, but managed to tease it out - took ages but worth it!.

All the head bolts are off, so I now have to try and get the head off with a rusty stud stuck in the head, see below. Soaking it in penetrating oil at the moment, and will probably have to use some heat too. Isn't this all kinds of fun..??

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Today, I also removed the last remnants of the sound proofing from the bonnet (hoover):

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Also, have a suspicion that the balance belt timing is out by one tooth. The cam is locked at TDC (flywheel mark and camshaft marks aligned):

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I think the water pump has been replaced at some time as my car is one of the first 924S models in the country, it was registered in late '85. However, from July '86 (I think), the new water pump was fitted. So, mine would have had the old style. Fitting the new one also required a bit of cutting of the rear belt cover. Mine has been 'butchered' . Whoever did the pump replacement really ought to take up demolition as a trade!!! Once I get it off, I will post a pic..

[pauly]

I've always thought the rear belt cover is a piss poor design.

[Dannyslade15]

Looks great all the progress so far dude I'm currently in a similar process with my 1985 944 all bolts are being replaced and everything powder coated as I go look forward to seeing more progress

[flt505]

Taking on a project such as this is not for the faint hearted - your dedication and tenacity is to be admired!

[Rhett]

Thanks for the encouragement and comments guys!

Had a few hours this afternoon, so what better way to spend it trying to get the cylinder head off... .

Anyway, gradual teasing it upwards with heat and oil applied worked - took a while though, but that's how it is with 30 year old fixings. Then I tried to get the remains of the stud out of the head....oh boy..oh boy...oh boy . Heated it up, sprayed it, heated it up, tried the old two nuts on the stud approach, only managed to mash the threads, tried a pair of mole grips, heated it up...and so on. It is still there, I really don't want to break it as I do not fancy drilling it out and heli coiling it, etc.

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Might have to weld a nut on and see what that does...
With the head off, this is what I saw...remember, I have not fired this motor up and it has been standing for years...so, the 'goo' is established stuff:

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I am guessing the head gasket had breached between the water and oil galleries. Will have a look in the oil cooler shortly and see if that has also breached. However, the oil itself looked ok - old and dark, but not full of mayonnaise:

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So, I am hoping the ' salad cream goo', is localised, we shall see.

Bores look fine with minimal wear and only tiny surface scores, so that's good, piston crowns are cleaning up fine. Cylinder head looks good, valves appear OK on a cursory inspection. Then the light faded and it was time for a cup of tea

More to follow!

[Rhett]

Hmm...one step forward...two steps back!

I had soaked the stud for a week, heated it up several times, tapped it to 'wake it up'. Then I attached the mole grips, they just tore the threads and didn't do anything. So, I found my old stiltsons. They gripped the stud better and I thought I felt it free off, so I rotated it very carefully just a few degrees....you know what happens next, it all ends in tears - mine . The stud sheared off. OK I thought, time to break out the drills. So, carefully drilled a pilot hole all the way through - that was a success. Then I got a larger drill, that started well, then it BROKE! .

So now I have a broken drill bit in the remains of the stud that is stuck fast in the block..nightmare.

Anyone out there offering advice?? Carbide drill, diamond burr bit in the Dremel, small tactical nuke??

I seem to remember that I had a love hate relationship with my 944S when it fought back and refused to get fixed, this new project is just the same!

[Pete82]

I think most probably would suggest a carbide drill or I think they are called an easy out drill bit, just make sure that doesn't break.

is it not possible to get something welded on to allow you to "undo" it out

[AndyG]

Hi, First of all I'm really enjoying your write up, I love a good restoration story. With regards your problem, unless you're desperate to keep the original engine (it's probably worth checking it is the original) then I would hunt around for a replacement block or even engine. Having tried myself in the past to drill through broken drill bits, you will spend a small fortune on blunting other drill bits with no guarantee of success. If you have enough room I would try drilling down the side of the broken bit and wiggle it out. Good luck!

[flt505]

I would anchor a new stud, cut to the appropriate length, using JB Weld. The Yanks swear by this stuff for difficult automotive problems such as yours - so could be worth a try...

[kashurst]

that's a bu@@er. can you post a picture, might have one or two ideas. What was the drill bit made out off? HSS, Cobalt, etc?

[sgl1966]

There are people that will come to you to drill out and helicoil broken bolts and studs , the local garage put me on to someone and cost me £40 .
Have a look on the internet for someone local .

[kashurst]

drip some strong hydrochloric acid down the broken drill bit flutes. Hydrochloric acid will react with the newley exposed aluminium around the drill bit and will hopefully create enough space to wiggle the broken drill bit section out. You can buy it on Ebay. (Muriatic acid). Once you have the drill bit out start drilling again but with a cobalt drill, going slowly with lots of cooling oil. Then helicoil it.