Engine Braking slight judder?

[Waylander]

top mounts are NLA, but you can buy M030 ones at £735.00 each!

[BrettandSam]

When I did my research I thought all Porsche 944 engine mounts were fluid filled and now they always supply turbo mounts as standard (well that’s what I thought I was buying)

[Waylander]

There is only one different mount now and that’s for Tiptronic 968’s

You cannot buy fluid filled mounts from anywhere but Porsche, at colossal cost

[BrettandSam]

Hi Wayander,
Given that the Porsche supplied mounts are better, last longer and also the difficulty of changing them surely it’s worth buying from Porsche on this occasion. I also read several stories of how the cheaper ones didn’t last long. I vote Porsche original on this occasion.

[Waylander]

I guess that would depend on a couple of factors

The cost of original as compared to Meyle, you can have 4 for the price of one, on a 968 I can change both in an afternoon, but I would guess its a darn sight harder on a turbo

Also do you intend to keep the car another 30 years?

[karozza]

So at least £485(€540) for the pair + delivery charge to Malta. I can get after market from Rosepassion at €118 + €18 delivery(which includes other items I might add) which they have sold 100s in the past 5 years & had 10 returns, mostly because the customer thought they were getting original.

Sounds very obvious to me that Porsche are taking us for a ride & so if a reasonable option is available, this is definitely the way to go.

Additional logic to what Waylander mentioned; depends on what mileage you put on the car as well! Mine hardly gets driven nowhere near a 1000 miles a year. With this in mind, even if inferior & lasts less, still a viable option.

Unfortunately, they are quite complicated to replace on the S2 & I don't have the contraption to raise the engine from above, as definitely would like to replace them myself. Maybe will not be able to avoid the cost of an independent garage to have them fitted. Still looking into this.

Waylander; do you have an explanation in your blog regarding your replacement? I cannot find your link!

[Waylander]

Ah its quite easy, just fiddly

you have to jack the car up a reasonable way, stands under the chassis, then a big bit of 6x2 or 3, jack the engine up and avoid smashing the crank and reference sensors, just take the weight to start with,

then release the four cross member bolts and the steering linkage, on the side you are working on wind the cross member bolts out and then back in a few turns, now as you undo the mount bolts it should all start moving about, once the bolts are completely removed from the engine mounts you should be able to get them out you might need a second pair of hands and a lump of 2x4 to push the motor about a bit, I did not need to on my car as I did them on my own.

when one side is complete, wind the crossmember bolts back in a way, then start the other side, dont do anything up tight until the mounts and motor are all settled into place, then do everything up,

I would mark the position of the crossmember with some masking tape, as there is a little room for movement, this is to adjust the thrust angle of the car

[karozza]

Ah its quite easy, just fiddly

you have to jack the car up a reasonable way, stands under the chassis, then a big bit of 6x2 or 3, jack the engine up and avoid smashing the crank and reference sensors, just take the weight to start with,

then release the four cross member bolts and the steering linkage, on the side you are working on wind the cross member bolts out and then back in a few turns, now as you undo the mount bolts it should all start moving about, once the bolts are completely removed from the engine mounts you should be able to get them out you might need a second pair of hands and a lump of 2x4 to push the motor about a bit, I did not need to on my car as I did them on my own.

when one side is complete, wind the crossmember bolts back in a way, then start the other side, dont do anything up tight until the mounts and motor are all settled into place, then do everything up,

I would mark the position of the crossmember with some masking tape, as there is a little room for movement, this is to adjust the thrust angle of the car

This sounds doable. I do have a floor lift that can take the car off the ground to around 1 metre.

A few questions; where can I jack the engine & where do I place the wood to work?
Yours is a 968; is it the same for 944 S2?
You do one side at a time; will I reach the mount bolts from under the car & or do you take the mount carrier off?

Cheers-appreciated.

[Waylander]

The layout of the 968 is just the same as the S2, there are a few differences with the bolt on bits

The wood spreads the load across the sump, you can use this to just “take the weight” of the engine and lift it a bit as needed, you can’t lift it far anyway

You only loosen the beam, there will be enough with the beam dangling on its bolts and the engine lifted about 30-50mm

You will find the passenger side easier than the steering side assuming it’s RHD, it’s dirty and fiddly and will take time, just don’t try to rush it

There as a good description of how on renlist which I followed but of course that was for LHD

No need to remove the brackets off the engine, just the three bolts off each mount, I know there were some updated bolts for the mounts as the early ones were different and you need the bolts when switching to the later mounts

[karozza]

The layout of the 968 is just the same as the S2, there are a few differences with the bolt on bits

The wood spreads the load across the sump, you can use this to just “take the weight” of the engine and lift it a bit as needed, you can’t lift it far anyway

You only loosen the beam, there will be enough with the beam dangling on its bolts and the engine lifted about 30-50mm

You will find the passenger side easier than the steering side assuming it’s RHD, it’s dirty and fiddly and will take time, just don’t try to rush it

There as a good description of how on renlist which I followed but of course that was for LHD

No need to remove the brackets off the engine, just the three bolts off each mount, I know there were some updated bolts for the mounts as the early ones were different and you need the bolts when switching to the later mounts

Great. I will order as soon as we start the New Year.

In the meantime will look up the Rennlist How to.

Thanks again.

[Wh1t3Kn1ght]

Check out the other posts on aftermarket engine mounts while you are on rennlist, it is such a pig of a job on a turbo I'd pay the extra for the genuine Porsche ones to save having to do it again when the aftermarket ones fail.

In fact I bought a pair of genuine mounts early last year but after several attempts over a few days I couldn't get my old ones removed without removing the exhaust manifold so I measured them to the spec in the porsche workshop manual and they are still OK according to that.

Sold them on the bay for what I paid which was around £350 for the pair.

[karozza]

In fact I bought a pair of genuine mounts early last year but after several attempts over a few days I couldn't get my old ones removed without removing the exhaust manifold so I measured them to the spec in the porsche workshop manual and they are still OK according to that.

may I ask how you manage to measure them?

[Waylander]

Have to get the weight off them, the measurements are in the workshop manual, I think you have to get them 75% of the way out to measure them

I did say, I thought it would be a hideous job on a turbo,

[Wh1t3Kn1ght]

According to the workshop manual you can measure them in situ?

(Height of installed hydraulic engine mount not less than 62-2mm)

Mine were just within specification by approximately 5mm or so with no visible damage or leakage of fluid.

[Al N]

I've just had them ( engine mounts ) replaced on mine after engine brake judder, sorted the problem 100%. The garage who did them got them for £44 odd each plus vat so major bargain