if it only comes on once you go over 5kph can you hear the motor prime in the OS / RH wheel arch
Not entirely sure it was the rear. But the front ones had a close reading to each other. The rear driver's side had an erratic reading & rear passenger side was fitted in place & did not seem like a perfect fit as well as a not so accurate part number; 0 265 001
You should hear a little buzz as the ABS motor primes, if you can’t hear that and the light comes on when it should have primed, try unplugging the abs relay then lug it back in and try it again
1992 968 Coupe Cobalt Blue
1985 Honda VF1000 F2 Bol D'or In Silver
2013 A4 177 TDI Quattro Ibis White
2013 Volvo XC60 D5 brilliant car
Waylander wrote:You should hear a little buzz as the ABS motor primes, if you can’t hear that and the light comes on when it should have primed, try unplugging the abs relay then lug it back in and try it again
Would seem to be, think you need test all the connections from wheel to ecu and make sure the motor runs
As there are two relays on top of the pump that need checking and cleaning
1992 968 Coupe Cobalt Blue
1985 Honda VF1000 F2 Bol D'or In Silver
2013 A4 177 TDI Quattro Ibis White
2013 Volvo XC60 D5 brilliant car
Waylander wrote:Would seem to be, think you need test all the connections from wheel to ecu and make sure the motor runs
As there are two relays on top of the pump that need checking and cleaning
Ok, will take it back to the shop after the holidays & take off wheel liner so to have a look at the relays/motor.
Do you have a link to which pins at the ECU relate to which wires at the wheels?
Also, would you know how to run the ABS motor without having to drive the car to 5Kph & trying to listen for it to prime? This would be safer & maybe can be done whilst working at the ECU or pump?
Waylander wrote:You can test the motor runs with connecting a + jump lead to the big red lead on the rear of the motor
I don’t know any other way of testing it
The relays on the motor are live all the time
I have a pin out somewhere for the 968 I will find it tomorrow
Found the pin out in one of you other posts & thought I should try continuity testing before going at the ABS pump.
Tested & found good continuity from ECU to sensors. While doing so, found that front sensors(that were on the car) read 1043 milli ohms & rear(new ones fitted) read 1697 milli ohms. Also, couldn't really read accurate Voltage while rotating wheel steadily; but could get a reading by just rotating very slowly Any how, front were .001V & reaR .004
So, dived into the ABS pump & for some reason, the harness sheathing had split & two wires were damaged. One wire just was chafed, the other completely separated into two with strands hanging out. After some acrobatics, managed to get the main plug off the motor assembly & pulled the harness back inside the kick panel for repair.
Had a few runs with the car today; no ABS warnings. With all new brakes settling in & ABS issue resolved, could enjoy the braking system, although still not at high speed yet.
Waylander, this should confirm those rear ABS sensors are a cheaper replacement & may help others.