Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

Have you measured your clutch movement at the fork through the inspection hole as per the manual?

If your clutch movement there, as well as the free play there is not right, all the other adjustments go out the window.

Hi Jon,
Thank you for that guidance - I haven't seen that bit in the manual I have (doesn't mean it's not there though !) I spent 2 hours last Sunday cramped in the footwell adjusting the pushrod to the pedal. The blue spring adjustment is about right again, (adjusting it doesn't move the pedal position), but the pedal is now about 5cm below the brake pedal level. When I press the clutch, the pedal has to go right to the floor for the clutch to fully dis-engage. However when I re-adjust the pushrod to move the pedal up, it gets to a point where the blue assistor sprint forces the pedal high up passed it's "centre point" - grrrrr .
The master cylinder was bought from a reputable Porsche parts supplier and advertised as being for an S2, so I have to trust it's the right one - it certainly looked exactly the same as the one that I removed.
Can you advise what the travel of the clutch fork should be, and do you think it could need another bleed - although the pedal pressure feels ok?
Many thanks for all suggestions so far ......

The page that shows the clutch spring adjustment is in volume II, section 30, page 1. The "clutch fork measurement" is on the next page, VII, S30, P02 and titled "Checking clutch drive plate for wear"

On page 03 of the same section and volume, there should also be "checking release travel"

Sometimes the PDF versions of manuals are poorly scanned, miss pages etc, so if you have an electronic version of the manual it might not have those pages, if so, let me know and I will scan and email them.

I've just fitted my new master and slave cylinder in my 1990 944 Turbo and have the same issue with the pedal travel.

I've bled my clutch line twice, which is much easier as I'm using a braided line from the master to the slave, so I'm able to pull the slave cylinder out and bleed it on top of the engine.

There is no air in the line at all, as @AlporS2 said it appears that the pedal travels further than it is supposed to, mine also appears to be missing a rubber buffer/stop, but there is a metal bracket where it should attach.

There is nothing on the parts diagram in PET which is unfortunate, so it looks like I will have to make something up and see if it resolves the issue.

Adjusting the push-rod length makes no difference, and it does indeed appear that the spring pulls the pedal to far up, so that the pedal is higher than the brake.