Concrete Garages

[IanK]

Guys,

just thinking about building a garage. Pre-cast concrete types like Hanson Lidget, Nucrete etc seem good value for money.

Just wondering if anyone has any experience of these?

[garyw]

I had one a fair few years ago..
The floor cost nearly as much as the garage, so worth giving that a thought..
Whilst it was well ventilated (it blew a gale through the roof edges, it always seemed to be damp or sweat.

I didn't actually keep a car in it, but anything steel did soon have a layer of rust over it after being stored in the garage.
At the time it suited my needs and worked well for me.

No one ever seems to want to buy it after- so again don't listen to the sales pitch..

[chaser]

I had a timber frame company design and build mine to my specification. The timber part of the Building, which is 6m x 10m, was around £2k plus vat including all the roof trusses etc. I chose to clad it in Hardie plank which was another £2k plus vat. Roofing was done in tile effect steel sheet with selotex insulation. All the walls were filled with rockwool. It stays as dry as a bone.

Not the cheapest way to get a garage but after the timber frame it could be built to a budget I`m sure.

[tr7v8]

^ That is lovely.

Mine is a Compton concrete sectional. Around 15 years ago a 22 x11ft standard height with two side doors in steel was £4,400 or close to it.
Yes they sweat & I wish I had painted the inside once up & also if I was laying a slab from scratch I'd lay a DPC. Good points is they go up very quickly the guys did mine in a morning! The base for mine was extended & the builder recommended by the agent was a grade 1 cowboy.
Be warned delivery is an interesting exercise my drive way still hasn't recovered. Run an electrical & alarm feed in before they shoot the base & I wish I'd laid in water as well.

[chaser]

My original budget went down the toilet fairly quickly I had around £12k in mind, with electrics, ground work, lining and insulation etc etc. Concrete swallowed £5k, block paving to meet existing drive £4.5k Electric roller door £1k, double glazed single door and windows £0.5k (mis-measures) It`s still not finished as I want to build a small extension on the back for a toilet. Final build is going to be close to double the original budget, but it will probably outlast me

[IanK]

Chaser,

that looks fantastic - but is far bigger than I can build in the space I have. I'm looking at 7.5m x 3.2m at the moment. Also, I cant use timber as building regs forbids this within 1m of a boundary.

The thought of condensation does bother me - but I'm not sure if this is only a problem with steel roof panels - I'd be going for concrete I think.

Any further thoughts and advise welcome.

[tr7v8]

I run a dehumidifier all the year round & pull around 10 litres a week in a Kent location. Hence my comment about DPC & painting the concrete walls.
Another point is that the sizing of the length vs width is set by the standard module size. Some will fit your plot better than others.

[Paul Mabley]

Chaser,

that looks fantastic - but is far bigger than I can build in the space I have. I'm looking at 7.5m x 3.2m at the moment. Also, I cant use timber as building regs forbids this within 1m of a boundary.

The thought of condensation does bother me - but I'm not sure if this is only a problem with steel roof panels - I'd be going for concrete I think.

Any further thoughts and advise welcome.

You can build from timber within 1m of boundary if you coat it internally with intumescent paint. This is what I have done.

Membrane under slab or liquid DPM on top and decent ventilation will aleviate condensation as will insulation to keep temperature more stable.

Try ply lining with rock wool behind, that way you can screw anything you like into the walls.

[chaser]

Chaser,

that looks fantastic - but is far bigger than I can build in the space I have. I'm looking at 7.5m x 3.2m at the moment. Also, I cant use timber as building regs forbids this within 1m of a boundary.

The thought of condensation does bother me - but I'm not sure if this is only a problem with steel roof panels - I'd be going for concrete I think.

Any further thoughts and advise welcome.

You can build from timber within 1m of boundary if you coat it internally with intumescent paint. This is what I have done.

Membrane under slab or liquid DPM on top and decent ventilation will aleviate condensation as will insulation to keep temperature more stable.

Try ply lining with rock wool behind, that way you can screw anything you like into the walls.

I had to line the `boundary` wall with plasterboard, even though the hardie plank is fireproof, to satisfy the building regs guy. I lined it all with sterling board first and painted it.

Put 1" selotex under the steel roof sheet to cut down on condensation, otherwise it will be dripping on your head at times. Also worth getting some waterproof membrane ( the type they put on timber frames to protect them) and lining ceiling, walls etc if you are going to line it out.

[FarQue]

I guess there's a budget involved OP, but if you're not planning on moving for a while, why not do the job properly and build yourself a brick garage or rendered block garage? Decent concrete base, brick or block walls, flat roof. Job jobbed. If it's not too tall you'll likely not need planning permission.

How practical are you?

BTW I used to rent a huge concrete garage from a neighbour. It was dry, but a bit 'twisted' with age. Not an attractive building at all.

[IanK]

FarQue,

I'm no brickie but can do most other things. A Hanson concrete 24' x 12' will be less than £6k inc the concrete base. I like the idea of it going up quickly.

I am also considering a proper brick garage, but I couldn't bear to put a flat roof on it - and the roof is where most of the money is in timber, boards felt and tiles. This is still an option though but I need to get a price for it before I decide.

If its "largely non combustible", under 2.5m in height (becuase close to boundary) and less than 30m2 it is "permitted development" and you don't need planning or b.regs for an outbuilding.

All - thanks for all the info so far.

[Paul Mabley]

If going for concrete I'd definitely vapour barrier, insulate and line the interior.

[t3rra]

If your going diy,9" Block layed flat is the most easiest way to build if attempting brick work for your first time, blocks will lay more level and stay put, wont need to keep as much off eye on them for plumb. Easy mesurmemt to keep to gauge (100/110mm) 250 block 2.5m high 4.5 wide. Be around 1000 blocks 4.5mx 6m with 4m opening Also build the opening with a timber frame first. Foundation work is best to get right as this will make the rest easy.

At a later date you can Stud wall inside and fill with celotex.

Cheapest would be stud work and ply. Use 6"/2" and 4" celotex ply the outside leaving 2" void.

Or do it properly with 4" brick face 4"installation 4"block inside. Really need to able, not to make a pigs ear off it.

[IanK]

Got a quote for a proper brick built (cavity) garage with tiled roof - thick end of £20k.

Maybe a concrete one with a lining will do for me.

Ian