Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

Wow 14 years off the road! Must have felt good to get it back on the road after all that time. Even if it's not quite up to the 968 power, the corners must have been good fun

I can't wait to do the same!

Primer and Prep

Replaced brake pipes and three way union at rear ( by Torsion Tube ).The unions into the three way adaptor looked a bit crusty ( hence the reason for changing them ) but was really surprised at the condition of the pipes where they clip into the nylon pipe clips above the rear axle.Really badly corroded and actually sheared when I removed them.Makes me think of checking any other pipes around the nylon clips.Just waiting for JMG's new improved flexible fuel lines and my back end is sorted !!

Toby

We're yo able to do this with the Torsion bar still in place or did you drop it?

Torsion bar left in place.Bit like threading a needle at twenty paces , but very doable with Kunifer pipe , as its considerably more flexible than steel.
Not sure whether you could do it with the torsion bar in place with steel pipes , but the obvious benefit of non corrodible Kunifer is that I won't have to do it again.

Toby

Since I've had my S it has suffered from a poor cold idle (almost stalling when maneuvering, etc) but recently it started playing up when warm, and stalling in traffic. I came home to sunshine on Wednesday afternoon so decided to remove the inlet to have a good look around. Apologies for the phone pics!

I had already identified a cracked breather pipe between the AOS and inlet, so had a new one of these ready to fit. Once removed I found that the TB was quite dirty on the manifold side, and the inlet manifold runners had quite a thick coating of oily residue in the runners. The injectors were very stubborn, but once removed it gave me a chance to give the inlet a good clean, as well as the TB.


Inlet & TB cleanup by Hallsy01, on Flickr


Inlet & TB cleanup by Hallsy01, on Flickr

I had also tested the TPS, the idle switch was working fine, but it seemed that the WOT switch was not. However, after removing the cover I found that both switches were in fact working OK, so either it had miraculously cured itself, or I had slipped with my meter probes!! I did find that the throttle stop was not actually contacting the throttle arm and the plate would bind a little when closed. I adjusted the throttle stop until it just contacted the closed plate, and then wound it on another 1/4 turn. Re-adjusted the idle switch and the TB was good to go.

I then pressure tested the intake pipework (had to get inventive with the bungs!) and found it was holding pressure fine at 5psi, so in terms of vacuum, it should be OK:


20140228_093945 by Hallsy01, on Flickr

The small more pipework that runs under the IM tested OK as well, but I replaced the elbows & T-pieces anyway while I had the opportunity.

The ISV was fairly dirty inside, so I cleaned that up and tested operation - all OK. Also replaced the ISV mounts.

The AFM had had the wiper arm moved before, but I still wanted to give it a proper bench test. The voltage output was nice and smooth, and the air temp sensor resistance was within spec:


20140227_122014 by Hallsy01, on Flickr

While I had access I also tested the knock sensors and DME temp sensor, again, resistance was within spec for both.

The AOS seals are a common leak point, and sure enough, mine were showing signs of leakage with oil around the ports. Once removed it I had some cleaning up to do!


944 AOS Clean by Hallsy01, on Flickr


944 AOS Clean by Hallsy01, on Flickr

Now nice and clean (apart from some staining), lid seal was greased, port seals were replaced. I also fitted a new oil filler cap:


944 AOS Clean by Hallsy01, on Flickr

Today I put it all back on the car with a new inlet manifold gasket. First start up and the idle still sounded a little rough, maybe there is still a problem, or maybe it was down to the initial lack of fuel and DME reset. Once on the road there was a big improvement, part throttle and overrun was much improved. Previously the car felt like it had too much engine braking on overrun (or a bit like the handbrake was sticking), now it feels much better. Feels a little more free revving as well, and pulls well up top. Once warm the idle was spot on, it would quickly return to ~1000rpm before gently dropping to ~800rpm.

I'm not sure whether the DME would have gone through any adaption process as I only had time for a quick 15 minute drive, but will give the car a good run tomorrow and have a better idea of whether the cold idle is improved.

Hopefully it's not placebo effect, lol!!

Nice work with the testing there

Awesome work Hallsy

Not so much today but yesterday.

Took a trip down from London to JMG to drop off my 968 for a couple of weeks for a few bits, Jon's a top chap and so are his son's.....

Thanks! I think my workmates think I'm mental, but I had to be sure!! It only takes a tiny vac leak or dodgy sensor to spoil your drive!!

Looking forward to a thorough run out tomorrow morning!

Sadly my cold idle is still a problem. She stalled reversing off the drive this morning and spluttered a bit as I went up the road.

Within a few minutes the idle is fairly stable, and once warm it is much better than it was - so all is not lost, just wish it would behave itself right from the off!

Next port of call if the ignition, the rotor arm & dizzy cap have recently been replaced, plugs aren't that old but didn't look too clean so I will replace them. Ignition leads look original, I'll meter them out, but to put my mind at rest I'll probably replace them - shame they're a bit pricey and 16v specific!!

Failing that, I'd like to try a 'system adaptation' using a diagnostic tool, just need to find out whether I need to find someone with a Bosch Hammer, or whether there is a modern day equivalent.

I have also read that some minor adaptation takes place after battery disconnection, once you have been driving for 30 minutes - does anyone know if this is true? I've not had chance for a 30 minute run yet, but will do tomorrow.

I drove it for the first time!

Admittedly it wasn't very far, just outside of the garage but since it didn't have any working brakes and it was pretty late when I got the driveshaft refitted it was never going to be driven above crawling pace.



Next thing to do is get some rear brakes, replace the flexi hoses, replace the microswitch on the hatch release and the dead one in the sunroof mech, fit new hatch struts, new hatch seal, mostly likely going to need new discs and then it can be given to the fine chaps at JMG to be de-rusted!

Great sense of achievement. I too want to make a pilgrimage to JMG with either / both of my Porsches.

I went once but it was in a Passat to pick up a new airbox for my 944 along with a swanky air filter.

That was when they were moving into the new workshop and despite the work in progress look at the time it was a pretty nice set up. I may have stayed a bit longer than I intended talking Porsches with Mark, top guys.