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 Post subject: 944 Misfire Latest
PostPosted: Sat Nov 20, 2010 4:10 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 28, 2009 10:02 pm
Posts: 188
Location: Derbyshire
TIPEC membership: 5516
Been investigating into why my car is misfiring today. Found there is a very weak spark on cylinder 2. Checked the plugs and leads were fine - they are.

Found that the contact points in the distributor cap were eroded so ordered the part. Also the rotor arm doesn't look so great so ordered one. Question is how do you remove it?

Thanks in advance,
Nicola

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 Post subject: Re: 944 Misfire Latest
PostPosted: Sat Nov 20, 2010 5:11 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 23, 2008 1:27 pm
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Location: Oxford
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There's a little grub screw holding it in place. Not removed mine yet so not sure how likely it is to be stuck in position.

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 Post subject: Re: 944 Misfire Latest
PostPosted: Sat Nov 20, 2010 5:38 pm 
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Thanks Rob :)

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1984 2.5 8v, early dash car in black
1974 MGB GT V8, Factory car 0815
Early dash 944s, the original and best!


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 Post subject: Re: 944 Misfire Latest
PostPosted: Sat Nov 20, 2010 6:31 pm 
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I put the grub screw back in with a bit of locktite! the PO of your car might have done the same. Don't lose the grub screw and put it back with locktite if you can.

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 Post subject: Re: 944 Misfire Latest
PostPosted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 5:11 pm 
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Does the screw have to come out completely or is it just nipped up against the side of the shaft?

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1984 2.5 8v, early dash car in black
1974 MGB GT V8, Factory car 0815
Early dash 944s, the original and best!


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 Post subject: Re: 944 Misfire Latest
PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 8:11 pm 
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Removed mine today in preparation of removing the engine and the screw does come out all the way as the thread goes into the shaft instead of the rotor arm. Mine slipped off the shaft fairly easily after a small nudge from a screwdriver.

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1988 Porsche 944S - Sold!
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 Post subject: Re: 944 Misfire Latest
PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 9:56 am 
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I just ran a fine file carefully around the edge of the brass on my rotor so that the edges were a sharp right angle and any oxidation was removed. Sparks like a nice small sharp edge or point to jump from . Same thing with Spark plugs and the terminals of the distributor cap .
There is nothing much to go wrong with a rotor unless it breaks up into pieces. Its just a bit of plastic and brass.
Make sure you also use a bit of wet n dry on the contact point in the centre ot the rotor where the graphite of the distributor cap presses on the top of the rotor.

Hey Nicola just noticed you have a rather nice Sebring MGBGT Do you race it ? I have had 7x MGB's including a 1962 pull door handle which was the 101th off the line! it wasn't made at Abingdon , the first few hundred cars were made outside until Abingdon had tooled up.

I once telephoned Nobby Hall at the MGB competition dept to ask if a late MGB overdrive gearbox had ever been mated with a early 3 bearing crank gearbox .
He said that it hadn't but should be possible. I made what was possibly the first conversion on one of my cars . It was a lot of work but the 3 bearing crank engine runs a lot freeer than the 5 bearing and is potentially a lot faster. mated with the late gearbox you had the perfect combo. :wink:

Love to see a pic of your car

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