Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

Any tips for getting siezed caliper connections loosened (such as bleed valves, flexible hoses, etc). Calipers are stripped so seals are out - would a bit of heat help with the problem?

Also, what sort of adhesive is best when re-using vibration absorbers? At £20 a throw, I intend to re-use the ones I took off...

The method I use to get bolts out is to build them up with a bit of weld from the MIG and out they come. I also use the same method for bleed nipples, etc. Never scrapped a caliper yet, they always come out. Best method for sheared nipples and hose connections is to drill the nipple with a 3 mm pilot drill being careful to to drill right into the caliper. Measure against a good nipple and mark the height with a bit of tape. Gradually increase drill size until you are up to 8mm. I then fill the hole with weld until about 8 to 10 mm out and then unscrew with a pair of vice grips.

Alasdair

This was mentioned in a previous post by Alistair (Sulzeruk), don't know if you want to try?

Thanks for the advice - I'm not sure that my welding skills are up to that!! In the end, a local engineering company did it for me, although Alasdair very kindly offered to assist if I got stuck. Calipers all rebuilt and ready to go back on now.

Any knowledge about the adhesive between pads and vibration absorbers when refitting? Glue or double sided tape?

No responses so either nobody knows or .....

Spoke to some experts and I'm told that, for Textar pads either OPC or OEM, there is now no need for vibration absorbers - they are now built into the back of the pad. On the back, you will find 2 sheets of shiny material which replaces the damper. Apparently, this mod has been in place for around 2 years!! By the way, this is for a 944T - not sure about other models. Does it work??? Will tell you soon...

Be interested to know myself. I'm due to replace the disk and pads on mine this summer.

I didn't put any vibration dampers the Green Stuff pads when we rebuilt the callipers on my 968. Just used copper grease instead.

TRW pads have this built in (formerly Lucas) and it works fine. I would apply some copper grease too just to be safe.

My new rear pagids had this too although I see the front ones (for a 250 turbo) still require the shims in place.

The other problem you may have is pad to disc noise which Pagids are really bad for. I had 2 front sets and both had the same unbearable noise then on changing to the TRW's i got a smidge of noise for a few miles then quiet. Interestingly the TRW's have the pad surface split in two (divide in the middle) whereas the pagids are one big surface. Don't know if this is a factor in noise or just the material they are made with.

Hope this helps.

Stuart

Well, one track day and some 300 road miles later... the brakes are fine. There is a bit of squealing now and again, particularly when finally coming to a halt at very slow speeds however other than that, they work as advertised!

Pads fitted at the moment are Textar - anyone have any views on EBC YellowStuff, specifically for track work?

P.S. no pad to disc noise...