Get someone to put their foot on the brake & see if you still have movement. If it still moves then it almost certainly where the strut piston meets the strut body. If it doesn't move then check at 3 & 9 with no brake. if the slack is the same as the 12 & 6 then it is the wheel bearing.
Nip it up so the washer doesn't move then back it off so it just moves. If the slack is still there then it is new wheel bearing time. Sometimes you can adjust them out & then a week later we are back to the same slack that is deffo a knacked bearing.

Hmm, with brakes on, no movement however can't detect any 9/3 o'clock play. Still suspect it to the wheel bearing though... They're not expensive so precautionary swap out, I think.

thanks, guys...

Hubs are alloy. You need a press & you have to be very careful or you will damage new bearings & hubs.

I bit the bullet and had mine fitted by a local mechanic both wheel including bearings only cost £130 fitted and took him two hours, in my opinion worth every penny because I knew I would end up with a hub on the drive with half a bearing stuck halfway in or out.

I know a few people who have only changed the roller bearing and left the original race in the hub which to me is not right new bearings in old race surely will wear quickly and not seat properly, but each to their own.

Fitting the rollers without replacing the race is very naughty & likely to not last very long.

The trick is to grind the old outer case down so you can use it as a drift for the new.
Knock the old one out with the hub on the floor.
Not a difficult job at all.
Rich