[I have to keep logging back in when I click 'submit' and then the post disappears, so I am repeating here so as not to loose it again]
Lets wind the (digital) clock back first...
The clock was not getting a permanent live when switched off. It never did work when switched off for the whole time I owned it.
After lots of head scratching, removal of the trim and clock, still couldn't work it out. Which lead me down the route of spending a weekend initially studying wiring diagrams and then the DIN - Deutsche Industrie Norm, the numeration (common across Europe) and colour coding.
Something I should have probably done waaay back but nonetheless, worthwhile to an extent that so much has been revealed and de-mystified. I also came across '12v' which is a laymans website containing all sorts of useful information. This, I had discovered previously when I had an immobiliser issue. Very useful:
https://www.the12volt.comWhat I had discovered is that at some point in it's life, the light grey and blue pins in the Bosch connector block had been switched - probably an accident considering the back of the block clipped off rather easily. Problem solved.
More recently, I the drop link on the n/s door snapped. Damn job. I elected to purchase 2 sheets of door membrane from VW Heritage parts at a mere £7 per sheet and it's perfect (1 is enough if you decide to do this yourself as it will do both doors) and some double sided sticky tape - the cheap stuff, not the 3m, it's far too strong*.
*Sorry Waylander, that other stuff was very impractical.
I also elected to remove the window. A job which gives you excellent access and it is per the Porsche manual. Something I was a bit loathed to do but is actually pretty straightforward. That is, 'straightforward' as far as Porsche jobs are. It also allowed me to lubricate and clean the glass.
I have to now do the drivers door microswitch. Pesky damn things them Porsche door handles but soo much easier with the window removed.
I bought an assortment pack of those fantastic solder butt connectors and this lead to another big job - sorting out the audio. The antenna to the screen had snapped off long ago and I tried in vain to cautiously solder a new one on but failed. The other issue was that all the wires including the speakers were put together (after chopping off the Blaupunkt connector block) by some previous owner and they used female and male bullet connectors creating a knot as big as your fist, all wrapped up with copious quantities of insulation tape. Only 1 speaker was working. Pioneer one's. I presume that wasn't standard factory fit?
I bought 4 relatively inexpensive Alpine speakers and set about sorting the audio and soldering in a connector block (using heat shrink) for a more modern Kenwood which I got for a mere £35 from the scrapyard including bluetooth, a USB port and of course, I can connect my phone to it. I also fitted a digital booster which runs off a live from the ignition when switched on only.
The whole job took 2 and a half days. The rear one's were a pig to fit and would probably have been much much easier if I had removed the glass but I managed. Just like I managed to partially remove the left hand door card when I could not open the passenger door. I read various posts and was expecting a mare but got access and opened the door within an hour.
Anyway, the last in this long post was the buzz I was getting at 4000rpm ruining a drive. Balance shaft belts a tooth out?
Well anyway, I removed everything you need to remove to get access and it was all lined up perfectly. But it made no sense. I consulted the manual, Clarke's garage write up and numerous posts on various forums. The only thing never mention was a post which stated that the two keyways for the balance shaft sprockets should be at 12 o'clock when the engine is at TDC. I could not tell without removing them.
When I originally got the engine and replaced almost every ancillary - water pump, seals, sump gasket, belts, pulleys etc etc etc, I meticulously took notes and pics and I marked the sprockets with white paint and red paint with a clear 'T' for top and 'L' for lower when I removed them. Now, unusually (and in my defence your honour), both sprockets were stamped with an 'O'.
I removed them to discover that they were not correct. After re-assembling, the car runs beautifully smoothly and pulls like a train. She is so addictive, she is my Heroin. I did a 120 mile drive on Saturday swooping along semi empty and very bendy Galloway roads. What a transformation.
Can I assume that the previous owner of said engine never took it above 3800rpm and it was like that for some time? I dunno.
I was also having cold start issues and that was thankfully, just the DME temperature sensor. Genuine Bosch one fitted for just £13. Problem solved.
I also had to replace a Lowe idle control valve... which I replaced with another Lowe. It was that long ago I fitted it, it was way past warranty. Pity but sourced from Germany for 63 Euros including p+p. Arrived in 10 days! Perhaps customs missed that one.
Next up - getting the flywheel re-faced. Bollox (cheaper than a new flywheel which is a snip at £401) as I have pretty bad clutch judder when coming down the gears not up. Yes, the engine mounts are new and the gearbox mount I rebuilt with liquid Poly, shore hardness 85. It's pretty solid.
There's always something to do on an old Porsche.
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