Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

I am posting this in case it stops anyone else making the same mistake I have just made.
I needed to remove the passenger seat on my 944S in order to lift the carpet and get access to the floor as part of rebuilding a rotten jacking point/scabby floor.
Easy job just remove the 6 seat rail bolts and lift it out.
5 bolts come out easily,last one a bit stubborn.No problem,get a bit of tube on the the Allen key for more leverage and hey presto key turns round in the bolt head and bolt stays put.
What I didn't realise is how soft those bolts are .With hindsight I should have soaked it liberally in WD40 for 24 hours rather than 'more leverage'.
Now the interesting bit is that due to the shape of the rail and seat ( it was a front bolt ) you can't get anything on the bolt head and you can't get an angle grinder on the bolt head to cut it off.
Not sure what to do now as that seat has got to come out .
Perhaps sleeping on the problem will help .
Any suggestions will be gratefully received.

small sharp cold chisel on the rim of the bolt, create a good V dent, then use the cold chisel at an angle to get it to turn. Once it moves just be patient, tap it around (maybe make a few more V dents ) and it will come out.

Use these
https://www.bing.com/images/search?view ... ajaxhist=0

Irwin Bolt Grippers
Us one that fits down over the outside of the bolt head. Had to use one last night on a lawnmower manifold allen bolt.

I got them in machine mart a few years ago.

Those Irwin bolt extractors are among my favourite tools for this kind of task, but you say you can't get onto the bolt head?

If you can get Allen key in head then it sounds like you at least have access for drill bit to drill head off. Just use bit a little wider than size of bolt shaft. With head off and seat removed, you'll probably find shaft turns out by hand without pressure of bolt head.

These are brilliant compared to the bolts used on series one 944s.

thanks guys,that's really helpful.
Those Irwin bolt grippers look the business but I don't think there is enough access room as the rail shape means it in only about 2 mill wider on either side of the bolt.
Thanks again

Jeff

Might be worth giving it a good soak with proper penetrating fluid (e.g. Plus Gas, not WD40) before attacking it with anything else. Can you cut a slot across the head (Dremel?) and use a big flat-head screwdriver on it? My screwdrivers (King Dicks) have a hex on the shaft so that you can use a spanner for extra leverage whilst leaning into the screw.

Michael

Get a Torx bit (not and allen key style one) which is bigger and hammer it into the old rounded hex hole ( should take quite a bit of hammer force), with the hammering should also free it a bit from the rust.

Is there any way that you can double cut half way each side of the bolt, thru' the rail? Tapping back (ie a hammer/chisel) on the rail will then give more access to the bolt. The damage on the rail, on refitting, would be minor, once tapped back into place...

thanks for the helpful tips.
Soaked it in penetrating fluid for 24 hours,cold chisel and and a couple of taps on the side and it came out easy.
I can now see the nice hole where the jacking point has rotted through from the inside and taken the floor above with it .
The thing that worries me is that when I first looked at the car I thought the jacking point looked a bit scabby but was not that bad,it just shows how they rot through from the inside.
Luckily I did not jack the car up on it.
Metal bashing and wind up the mig now but it does not look a complicated repair.

For future reference do as j.c. stated first, it's the best way of dealing with a rounded allen key head, plus as you have found, soak overnight with WD40.

Well done on getting it out...

Pete