Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

Since buying last November..............

Stripped interior out - sold on ebay;
Swapped wheels from Phone dials to cookie cutters (net cost £20);
replaced broken accelerator pedal;
Fitted bucket seats and 4 point harnesses to enable car to be moved short distance safely to ICM (local 'proper' garage), seats to be refitted to reinforced mounts once..................
....(rear roll cage purchased and )sent to ICM for fitting;
ICM have car for HG, water pump and belts replacement (inc Head rebuild - why not whilst off!) - plus aforementioned seat and cage fitting;

Should be back in a week or so, then repaint and ready for Goodwood Members meeting hopefully!

Getting excited..................

Ian

Sounds excellent, I'll have to finally get to a Kineton meet and take a peek at it

Happy to show it pre and post paint beforehand if you are this way (inclined?).

Should I fit a strut brace up front, thats the next Conundrum?

Cage supplier suggestion: Rollcentre Racing. Don't omit the front though. If you really must then ask them to make the rear minus the hangers for safetys sake otherwise itll more likely kill you than save you.

Well so far:
Teledials swapped for Cookies
Head rebuilt
Replaced with new HG, Thermostat, Water Pump, belts and tensioner etc
added different throttle cam
half cage bolted in
bucket seats and harnesses fitted
flat bottom momo wheel
decent Nexen tyres fitted (toyos in reserve)
started to paint the odd panel

Then

Decided to tax and use it a bit, first 100 miles OK then.......................
10 miles into my drive to work, power suddenly dropped off, couldn't rev engine,even with foot halfway down on accelerator and throttle cam doing its bit the car just went from 500-2000rpm and back and didnt want to tick over. Tried to drive off main road but as engine wouldnt take any 'load' didnt make it, left car for 10 mins whilst calling recovery co, started it and managed to drive onto a wide side road. Recovery truck came in 45mins, managed to drive onto truck but car then lost power etc again, puff of white smoke from rear.

So, any ideas..............?
So far i'm thinking smoke was unburned fuel and there's a fuel (well induction pipe) issue - couldnt see anything?
Are ignition modules prone to go on these like
Car was at normal temp, not overheating and running fine before incident.

Garage who did work are looking at it Monday, mechanic also has 944 so i'm hoping diagnosis will be easy - and fix cheap!

Bugger, still i'm now forced to use Stag this weekend!!

Stag more reliable than 944 shocker .











Had a few Stags myself .

Needs suspension. No one does it because it costs real money, but old 944s are useless without it. I have lost count of the numbers of sheds Ive seen stripped of their scraggy interior and called 'track toy'. Probably all now scrapped.

Ah, now thats where it gets interesting, car rides quite firm and about an inch lower than a normal 944 - so I'm assuming for now those yellow shocks and red springs may not be standard. And brakes are grooved - but yes I agree, plenty of roly poly track cars out there.

Mine definitely sat in the roly-poly category. Front suspension is virtually done... stock bushings, B6 shocks, not changed the springs yet. Looking forward to seeing the difference once it's back rolling with a geo. Then starting on the rear suspension....

If you want a 944 to compare against Ian, give me a shout. (Although I get the impression you have a few options there :p )

Maybe once I get the paint sorted, its sort of primer and bare metal at moment, with a white nosecone!

And............the breakdown is possibly a DME temp sensor issue, sure I've got one in the box of bits that came with the car - if not they are only £35 from Porsche shop - phew.

B*gger, yesterday's results were a mixed bag..............

Test date
8 June 2017
Test Result Fail
Odometer reading46,938 miles MOT test number8308 3644 1056 Reason(s) for failure

Offside Rear Inner Body or chassis has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings sill chalked (6.1.B.2)
passengers seat insecure seat mount under car pulled through (6.2.A.1)
Horn not working (1.6.2a)

Getting a bit tight for Wednesday's foray up Prescott (not a political euphemism!), might have to use the Skoda - could be fun, 200+BHP

Might get it back tomorrow!

Ian

OK So MOT sorted.

Took car out again last night for a blast, went really well for 10 miles then just seemed to die and go into what can best be described as reluctant running, revving itself from 500-1500rpm, and no response to throttle. Switch off and on and car starts and revs OK only to dido the same again after 10 seconds or so.

So, my theory is there is something that is shutting off or reducing fuel injection when the car reaches normal operating temp. We have currently bypassed the thermo fan switch as two Porsche suppliers have sent the wrong ones so far, so there is a temporary switch in the car. Is it possible that the fan switch on the rad not only controls the fan but also tells the engine to shut down of overheating, not being there its messed up this 'limp mode' so the car thinks its always too hot?

The other thing i've heard mention of here is the Sensor loom can fail - is this a likely symptom of that?

Any ideas Ladies and Gents? Getting fed up and not really enjoying the 944 Experience so far - mechanics are also stumped as they did road testing and it went OK.

Stumped and might have to cancel my Prescott day tomorrow......I'd be reluctant to risk the Stag, so the 200BHP Octavia might get called up (although we are supposed to be going on hols in it in a week or so!!).

From the wiring diagram, the fan control switch has no links to the DME at all:


It's the USA version, but the only difference I'm aware of is the addition of the O2 sensor.

If you look up from point 18 along the bottom, that's the DME temp sensor. If you want to check it, unplug the DME and pop a multimeter between Pin 13 of the DME socket and Ground. Approx resistance readings are here: http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manua ... m#dme-temp While testing give the wires and connections a good wiggle and see if the resistance fluctuates...

For more in depth testing it would also be possible to (very temporarily) replace the sensor with a 5k potentiometer - with that you could fool the DME into thinking the engine is at any temperature you want and see if your symptoms are recreated.

I think my money would be on an intermittent connection somewhere though... Lots of buzzing out with a multimeter and wiggling wires needed

Thanks, forwarded to mechanics!