Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

Just ordered a repair kit from Design 911, looks simple enough a job with the right tools, am i right there? Does anything fall off when you drop the slave off the bellhousing?

I'm getting some intermittent spongyness in the pedal, but no fluid loss or major leaks. I know hydraulic slaves can suck air in when the piston seal goes, it was biting near the floor earlier on today, but then just went back to normal.

Not sure about the 924 but I guess the removal is basically the same (eg 924/944). You need to disconnect the battery terminals, as you are going to have to remove the starter motor.

Whilst the starter motor is removed, it's not a bad idea to get the motor re-bushed/overhauled.

Bleeding the clutch is a real pain, but the most effective way is a vertical bleed ie from the slave itself. You use a clean/new pump oil can (it has a flexible nozzle thing) filled with brake fluid. Attach the end of the flex to a clear tube, the other end to the slave bleed nipple. Open the nipple and gentle pull on the oil can trigger, until the brake master cylinder is at least half way full - you are going to need a 'watcher' mate while you are doing this to check the level - that done you can secure the bleed nut tight. Top-up the res then to the max level...

Shizzle, looks like the job's just been upgraded to a master cylinder replacement aswell, there's leaks from both ends and just when i was hoping for a cheap and easy month. What's this about the system being beastly to bleed? Does it not just gravity bleed? Is it even more of a pain in the arse if you're doing both cylinders? What's the significance of lifting up the back end as per Clark's Garage instructions? Does a gunson e-zee bleed work?

any one man bleeding kit will work fine. its worth putting a few turns of PTFE tape and a dab of grease on the bleed nipple thread to stop air getting back in as you press the clutch pedal down and up etc. good luck with it.

I should have mentioned that your master cylinder was probably on the way out as well. As the two units, slave and master, the wear is equal to both units. Replacing the master cylinder is pretty straight forward, you just to clamber upside down into the foot well to disconnect the clutch link from the pedal. Bleeding is the same but the slave is not a gravity tube - it has a top 'loop' which traps an air pocket. Vertical bleeding works well without all that pedal pushing, but there are other systems on the market which do the trick.

Well, that was a bit of a pain in the c u nxt tues. Pipe wouldn't come undone from the slave, had to cherry it to get the nut moving, car looked like it was on fire there was so much smoke, never knew brake fluid could fume like that. Also everyone, don't forget the clutch pedal is sprung downwards and will only need the merest of taps to ping to the floor; and that the internals of the slave cylinder you've just rebuilt are not held in by anything much and will blow out as and when they like. Both cylinders done, took a day and a half!