The database behind the forum suffered some corruption and had to be repaired over the weekend. Perhaps your topic was lost in the process - if so, apologies

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ETA: I've PMed you the text of it from Google's cache if you want to re-post it (no replies in the cache - sorry).
ETA: Found the replies in Bing's cache:
zedhex wrote:
944 turbo crossover pipe: bolts won't budge!
I just spent the last two hours trying to remove the bolts that hold the crossover pipe to the turbo. It's not often that I actually give up on a job, but this is getting very close. The problem is compounded by the fact that you just cannot get good access to the fourth bolt that is under the turbo and goes into a nut welded on to the flange. None of my ratchet spanners will fit, the only ones that can go on are an old open-ender and a shortie ring spanner. Neither one will allow me to get any real power onto them. I even tried the 'long ring spanner over the end' trick, but all that happens is the spanner bends. Whoever put that bolt on there meant it to stay!
So what now? The reason I want the pipe off is so that I can fix a leak between the exhaust manifold and the crossover pipe. After all this effort, I think it may be easier to get some copper gaskets on the two 3-bolt flanges on the exhaust end. I read somewhere that Lindsey racing sells something like that. Does anyone know if this would work?
ropeman23 wrote:
A good old squirt of 'Plus Gas' and leave them over night? Failing that take it for a drive, get it nice and hot, put some gloves on and have a go. Best of all can you get in there with an impact driver?
PSH wrote:
Hi
These bolts tend to be very difficult to remove, they get very hot, corrode and are very difficult to get at. It seems that you've tried most options, you can try an anti seize spray but I doubt it will work leaving heat the most viable option. Protect all of the surrounding area and use a blow torch on the brazed nut, keep the flame away from the bolt.Once it's heated to a dull red you should find the bolt come out fairly easily,it may come out sooner, test, try rocking it if still stubborn, ie a very slight turn that would normally tighten it before undoing. Do be careful where you direct the flame, you don't want that kind of heat on any seals/gaskets, be particularly aware of the sump gasket and dip stick seal which are in the general area. Use something as a heat shield, a sheet of steel formed to give as big an air gap between it and the part being protected should suffice, don't let the block got hot.
Oh and as with any use of a naked flame, be sure of no fuel vapour or leaks..
good luck
Pete
944 Man wrote:
Heat 3x and allow to cool then douse in penetrating oil. If that doesn't free it then nothing will, so be prepared for a larger job.
As is always the case, you need someone watching with a large (6l+) extinguisher ready to go.
zedhex wrote:
Thanks for the answers so far, but from the tone of them, I think I may try something else: is it possible to remove the exhaust manifold? That would give me access to the leaking flanges on the crossover pipe, and I might be able to clean up the crush ring grooves without dropping too much crap down the pipe. Has anyone else tried that?