Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

Hi, could an owner of a 16v 944 please do me a favour and do this quick test of your idle control value.

Turn your ignition on (don't start the car) so you can see the dashboard light up - then pop the bonnet and put your finger on the ICV just visible from underneath the intake manifold below the injectors.

Can you feel the ICV vibrating at all?

Apparently you should be able to - mine doesn't BTW.

Thank you for helping

Hi Steve, just tried that test...mine doesn't vibrate at all, even when the engine is started. However, were did you get the advice that it should 'vibrate'?? - as the construction of these valves doesn't seem to lend itself to a that type of operation. Unlike say a Golf engine where the thing buzzes away most of the time! I thought the ECU sent the required voltages to open and close the valve as required and that this operation would be somewhat smooth? Perhaps someone with knowledge of this can chip in...I'll have a look in my Bosch FI guide book.

Hey thanks Rhett - I read it on a certain american Porsche site. I'm trying to find an intermittent idle issue but don't want to spend £150 to find out if it's the ICV.

Ahh..that'll be Pelican then? I just also read the posts referring to the ICV operation and they are most interesting, especially the bits about the way the DME signals the valve to open and close. My idle has been pegged at about 1100 for a long time now, but is smooth. I wonder if my ICV is operating? I have a scope so I will give it a test at some point. So, according to Pelican forum members the ICV should vibrate, and it doesn't take a lot to stop it doing that, and when it jams it can damage the drivers in the DME, so lots to work through here....

Best of luck with your investigations too...!

They get dirty,and sticky, whip it off,give it a damn good soaking in brake cleaner (the inside bit) give it a good drying, a squirt of light lubricant and refit. If that does not cure your problem, its knackered, or not that in the first place! This info is not gained from 944's, but on my 993, and I am pretty sure they use this unit on several models.

Thanks Sam - looks like I'm going to have to do that again to be sure. When it's off ill see if I can jumper it and see if it's actually working -Rhett I'm pretty sure you could help me do that?

When its off apply 12v+ to the centre pin, the other two pins are both negative and switching between the two will open and close it, you should find it opens and closes with a good audible clunk which should sound the same either side. if it doesn't it could be gummed up.

Thanks Scott

these are all the same might find the fiat or lancia one is cheaper if you need a new one

ALFA ROMEO 6053 78 360
FIAT 60537836
LANCIA 60537836
PORSCHE 944 606 160 00
Bosch 0 280 140 514

Excellent investigative skills Waylander. Thanks!

Digging around I wonder if Bosch 0280 140 516 would also work on our 16v cars? The entry & exit ports are arranged differently but I can't see why that would cause a problem under the intake manifold, space wise. The question is if the internal operation & connector is the same as 0280 140 514?

think you will find they are all pretty much the same just air flow volumes and connection configuration alter the part numbers

the cheap replacement for the 968 is off a Hyundi Lantra about £30

like this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Idle-Air-Control-Valve-Control-Fit-For-SAAB-VOLKSWAGEN-AUDI-0280140505-/290963014383?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item43bebf42ef

Great!

Another question: is it necessary that the front ICV hose runs to the J-Boot between the TB & AFM or can it theoretically run to a connector between the AFM & Air filter?

(The reason I ask is that I'm fitting a different silicon reducing hose between the TB & AFM to give a smoother 45° curve & better air flow, and currently the standard S2 j-boot has a kink in it caused by the connector for the hose to the ICV.)

Hi Steve, I don't think connecting the ICV intake to a point before the AFM would be a good idea - as the engine would then have unmetered air being drawn in. Where it is connected at the moment it bypasses the throttle with metered air. I had an air leak on the j tube rubber and it really upset the engine due to unmetered air...

Ok so I removed the intake gubbins and ICV. MY ICV is two pin - I jumpered it to the battery and it works! So that's not the issue I don't think.

I also figured out that I'd run the hoses from the ICV incorrectly originally by connecting the front hose to the intake instead of the boot and visa versa...that's corrected now. I wonder if that was the problem...

While the intake was off I pulled the two front temp sensors and replaced both, then cleaned the contacts on the spades & blue connector & reinstalled. Hopefully that'll fix the temp gauge as cleaning the ground on the back of the cluster didn't cure the jumping needle.

After reading some stuff about Venturi deletes and the fact that later cars do not have the Venturi Y connector between the rear of the intake & brake booster I removed mine. I've now got a much simpler vacuum hose setup now: rear of S2 intake directly to brake booster; and control valve (near fuse box bulkhead) that used to run to the one Y of the Venturi and then to rear of S2 intake, now runs to the j-boot where I'd previously had a bung on a metal connector that is also home to the hose to the front of the ICV. Be interesting to see what the result is - a vacuum is a vacuum right?

Any thoughts about connecting that control valve to the J-boot other than "don't mess with what Porsche did, who do you think you are?" - it's too late for that

Cheers

Hi, I'm in the middle of a head rebuild and have come accross your blog a few times, looking at perhaps swapping to the S2 intake on my S, you bypassed the venturi via a bung from what i see,

My ICV to venturi line has a large tear in it and of course, it's no longer available...
i can't find the hose ANYWHERE, only a venturi delete version, did you use one of these venturi delete kits like for the turbo?

How exactly did you re route it?

On top of that, is it a direct bolt on for the new mani? or do i need to note rerouting anything else?