Thanks for that John - just wanted to be clear on how the DME reacted to it being made.
I tried to dismantle the TPS but the seal was very well glued and there was no way I was going to get it off without cracking or distorting the case seam, so I decided to cut the top off and then reseal once I had found the problem.
20140227_083251 by
Hallsy01, on Flickr
Pretty basic inside, a standard Burgess microswitch on the right for the idle switch, and cam switch on the left for WOT. Trouble is, at this point I could see little wrong with the WOT switch, and metering it out, all was well.
So either I had not had my probes on the pins properly, or taking it apart fixed it (very unlikely, but there was a rogue piece of plastic in there that may have been blocking the WOT contacts). The wiring diagram from workshop manual didn't work, as it showed a diagram with the pins numbered 3 - 1 - 2 , with the idle contact across 1 & 2, and the WOT contact across 3 & 2. 2 was definitely the common, but the pin sequence was 1 - 2- 3 as you'd expect. I'm certain I tried every configuration across the switch anyway, just possible I didn't have my probes quite touching when I tested the WOT switch.
Oh well, gave it a clean up and resealed, adjusted the throttle stop as it was set such that it wasn't touching the throttle stop, and the plate was binding a little in the TB body. I set it such that it just touched the closed throttle plate and then wound in a futher 1/4 turn - that is what I had read online, whether that is correct or not, I can't be sure.
Amongst other issues I will hopefully have the car back together today, so will see if I have resolved my idle issues!!