Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

My bargain Sach clutch kit arrived complete and new...e-bay sometimes still throws up some really good stuff.

The clutch change isn't needed just yet - the car has only covered 77k mikes and the clutch works fine- so I thought I would ask what else I should gather together ready for when I do drop the transaxle.

I was thinking along the lines of Crankshaft rear oil seal, Clutch pilot bearing, Clutch fork bearings, Gear change system refresh, Transaxle mount. I've read that the clutch pressure plate bolts can be difficult to remove and possibly shear or round off....so maybe a new set of bolts?

Also any tips for when I change the clutch would be gratefully accepted. I've read the Clarke guide and that seems reasonably straight forward.....I do have a degree of mechanical aptitude so I am happy to take on the job as none of my local clutch specialists want to touch a 944!

Can anyone advise if this is the sensible, is it overkill or am I missing anything?

Thanks

Jon

Hi Jon, I have done a couple of these..but by no means an expert.

I think your 'to do' list is pretty good, I would put the gearbox output shaft seals in there as well, as you have to drop the drive shafts anyway, so makes sense (wish I had done that!). Defo on the new set of clutch plate bolts.

I didn't replace the transaxle mount as it seemed OK and the new part was quite expensive. I would possibly wait and inspect before buying a new one? - but this depends on budget, etc.

For this job it really helps to have some assistance when dropping the transaxle and moving the torque tube, etc. Get the car as high as you can, you will be glad of the room as you will be spending quite some time on your back working above your head. Do not rely on just axle stands...use them (of course) but supplement with concrete slabs, large wood blocks, basically anything that would prevent the car from falling in any way. Just ensure the car is supported as safely as possible. Get some good goggles and some tough gloves for handling the torque tube, etc.

Work methodically and carefully, do not try to rush, it is straightforward - but can be challenging as it is one of the 'bigger' maintenance jobs - but very satisfying when done...

Always 'wake-up' the clutch bolts with a tap from a hammer (or something) and make sure the right size bit is right in the head before attempting to undo. So, you may have to clean the heads out first. I have found that the bolts like a swift 'crack' to undo, they don't seem to like sustained pressure and that is when the heads can 'round-off'. But do not be too aggressive.

Take precautions regarding asbestos dust, your old clutch plate may have used that as a friction material.

Inspect the flywheel for scoring and get it machined if required.

I am sure that I may have missed something and others will give their opinion and advice too...go for it and good luck when you do!

Hi, I've done it both ways (i.e. taking the gearbox out and taking the engine out) and I would strongly recommend taking the engine out as its so much easier. This saves a lot crawling about underneath the car and makes the actual clutch change and access to bolts etc. much easier.

Of course, once you've got the engine out you've got easy access to the front, so it would probably be a good time to do a front seal kit, belts, waterpump et al. You would need an engine hoist, but its a small price to pay to make this job easier.

I would also consider doing the torque tube bearings as well. I think RGA in south London do an exchange service for about £275.

Andy has a very valid point. I too have done the clutch with gearbox out and engine out, and I have to say that the engine out was by far the easiest. It does also give you 101 other things that you can spend your money on and do while the lump is out...

If you don't have an engine hoist then most good tool hire companies have one, or do as I did, buy one on eBay...use it for however long and then sell it on (no room to keep it and I needed the money!). I think I broke even, so it didn't really cost me anything!

I think the only issue I had was when putting the engine back in it took a bit of 'wiggling' to get the torque shaft located in the new pilot bearing, but got there in the end.

However, as they say...the choice is up to you...

Jon,

This thread (eventually) lists the parts I had changed when the clutch was done on my S2. viewtopic.php?f=25&t=12732&start=30

If you're doing it yourself, you'll be saving yourself a fortune in labour.

Cheers,
Bryan

Thanks Guys,

I'll order up the additional bits and pieces with the exception of the transaxle mount in advance of the job..I think, due to space constraints in my garage (low ceiling) that it will be a tansaxle out rather than engine out...I'll take a call on that closer to the time.

I'm planning on taking a week off work to do this plus all of the other jobs lined up ...and give the car an early full service and MOT. whilst I am there...well possibly early dependent on when I can actually take time out.

Regards

Jon