Hi Jon, I have done a couple of these..but by no means an expert.
I think your 'to do' list is pretty good, I would put the gearbox output shaft seals in there as well, as you have to drop the drive shafts anyway, so makes sense (wish I had done that!). Defo on the new set of clutch plate bolts.
I didn't replace the transaxle mount as it seemed OK and the new part was quite expensive. I would possibly wait and inspect before buying a new one? - but this depends on budget, etc.
For this job it really helps to have some assistance when dropping the transaxle and moving the torque tube, etc. Get the car as high as you can, you will be glad of the room as you will be spending quite some time on your back working above your head. Do not rely on just axle stands...use them (of course) but supplement with concrete slabs, large wood blocks, basically anything that would prevent the car from falling in any way. Just ensure the car is supported as safely as possible. Get some good goggles and some tough gloves for handling the torque tube, etc.
Work methodically and carefully, do not try to rush, it is straightforward - but can be challenging as it is one of the 'bigger' maintenance jobs - but very satisfying when done...
Always 'wake-up' the clutch bolts with a tap from a hammer (or something) and make sure the right size bit is right in the head before attempting to undo. So, you may have to clean the heads out first. I have found that the bolts like a swift 'crack' to undo, they don't seem to like sustained pressure and that is when the heads can 'round-off'. But do not be too aggressive.
Take precautions regarding asbestos dust, your old clutch plate may have used that as a friction material.
Inspect the flywheel for scoring and get it machined if required.
I am sure that I may have missed something and others will give their opinion and advice too...go for it and good luck when you do!
