Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

Although I have already cleaned this up, I hadn't tried to undo the bleed nipple until today. Despite soaking it in WD40 a few months ago, and again today, it snapped off. I tried using a screw extractor, but that didn't help. Is there any technique that is worth using to get the bleed nipple out?

As you can see from the photo, it's not exactly in great shape anyway. I can easily find a set of used calipers on eBay for not much money, but part of my personal challenge on this car is to re-use as many original parts as possible and keep the cost down. I only want the car to work, not to look restored to showroom condition.

I had one on a 2.7l exchanged through a motor factor for under £60 a couple of years ago with a similar failure.

Thatll come up looking like new after its been passivated.

A suitable eBay replacement for a 924 caliper is only about £30 though! I just wondered if anyone knew a DIY technique to get out the seized bleed nipple!

Yes, but thats a K70 caliper and this is a 911 caliper. Its bigger and better. I cant help with regards to the damahe Im afraid, beyond confirming that it can be fixed.

Get a machine shop to drill and retap? Just remember is need to be a tapper thread

Sorry I didn't mention this is from the 924! My personal rolling scrapyard.

The problem with drilling them out is remaking the seat. Without the correct tooling this will be nigh on impossible to replicate at home. I wouldn't try as others have said recons are so cheap I wouldn't worry.

Considering how much Im supposed to know, I should have noticed! I couldnt see past the rust, and wondering how it managed to get so rusty.

I was in the same situation recently and ended up cracking the casting trying to get a bleed nipple out of a 944 rear caliper. If I was to do it again I would drill it out. It's not a taper thread, it's an m7. Don't drill all the way to the bottom and you won't affect the seat. The last few mm of the nipple aren't threaded so should push out once the threaded part is drilled. Apparently you can get left handed drill bits which help also but there should be no need. Just slowly work up in size to 5.5mm. You should be able to pick out the rest of the threaded part. If not drill to to the m7 drill size which is 6.0 mm.

I was about to replace my bleed valves on my rear calipers as they've had the top snapped off previously. However, I may reconsider this decision after reading this thread and buy refurbed one's (which would get rid of the horrid ones which have been painted red (badly!!)) as it sounds like a recipe for disaster or does `luck favour the brave', what do you think?

All the bleed screws on my 944 were fine, but then again, they look rust free and all had dust caps on them. This 924 of mine is a mess, and has been unloved for years.

Having broken a few bleed nipples in the past (on other cars), when I came to refurb my 944 calipers I did the following:

1) Darn good wire brush to remove surface rust and crud from nipple.
2) Remove caliper to bench/vice.
3) Spray WD40.
4) Tap all around and on top of nipple to 'wake up' the thread.
5) Break out the propane torch and heat till very hot.
6) Use a deep socket and give it a try...gentle tap if needed (a spanner will probably just ring off)
7) If no go, more WD - more heat, another tap etc.

Took about 10/15 mins on each one, but they all came out OK - then throw them in the bin and replace with stainless steel ones!

Sounds like very wise words indeed!!!

I think I might just apply this technique to the whole caliper.

^^^

Yep..sometimes it's just too much bother!