Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

Hi there, hoping someone can help me with this.....

Tonight I started my gear and it was in gear so stamped my foot on the clutch as I did so. Problem is that now the clutch pedal only has about 1.5 inches of travel and doesn't return to the normal position unless you help it with your foot underneath and then it clunks back to the normal position. Trouble is, next time you put your foot on it there's no pressure until it gets to the bottom 1.5 inches of travel and then it doesn't return again on release. However the clutch does still work and the car can be driven but obviously something is wrong and I can't go far.

I looked at the parts diagrams and my guess is that either the clevis or power spring is the problem, unless the master cylinder has somehow moved, but its too dark to see tonight.

Any suggestions on possible cause/solutions would be most welcome.

From my exprence it's most likely the slave.

Most people will tell you 2 replace both and the flexi hose as it prob won't be long b4 the other parts fail. Makes sense while your in there.

On my S I just replaced the slave. Press the pedal in not return, could flick it back up.

On my turbo was the master, the pedal would Drop/ pull away from me and stay on the floor.

You can get kits 2 rebuild both, or new parts £60/80 each plus the flexi hose total off about £200.

The slave under the starter. Iv found it easyer 2 jack the front, bleed the slave with the nipple higher the push rod, then instole, then with someone help bleed by pedal. Heard they can be hard work, but it's always been pretty easy.

I had the same symptoms a while back, even had fluid leaking onto footwell carpet. Both the master and slave cylinders were thence rebuilt and while the latter was being done, the starter motor was reconditioned, (which solved a starting complaint). Flexi-hose from the m.cyl also renewed.
Or, in your case, it maybe that the fluid level has never been checked (no offence) and it's now just run-out? Then you just need a bleed thru'.

Dave

Mine was similar recently, the master cylinder has come apart to the extent the piston just came out of the cylinder upon removal. Somehow the car had still been driving.

I managed get a fairly new second hand master and flexi-hose and reservoir on eBay for £25 and a rebuild kit of the slave cylinder for about £15 I think.

Have a look at the Eezibleed kits. I got on from halfords and made bleeding the clutch pretty easy to do by myself. this is the kit
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Gunson-G4062-Eezibleed-Kit/dp/B001KTFIWA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1349446612&sr=8-1

Also there is a return spring on the pedal. Mine had snapped which helps it up the last little bit. I still haven't managed to fit the new one! It was about 80p from Porsche directly.

Gents, I can only thank you for your help on this. I agree that the cylinders are now the most likely culprits and it doesn't seem worth only doing one. I can't complain as I have checked the cars history file and it looks like they have only lasted for 148,000 miles and 24.5 years - looks like my Saturday is going to be spent getting my hands dirty!

Thank you again for your help and setting me in the right direction.

I repalced my slave and master the other month.

These are some links I found useful..

Clutch cylinders replace

Note the master is way easier on RHD cars

http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/forum/ ... 1294689734

Bleed clutch

http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/forum/ ... 1294677137

Don't do what I did and spend an hour getting the back of the car nicely in the air on stands and then realise the slave is towards the front of the car.

DO disconnect the battery before you go near removing the starter motor.

Go for it

OK, a quick update for anyone else's future reference.

Turned out it was the slave which had failed so I got new one from Porscheshop in Halesowen and I am just waiting for a new flexihose to plumb it in to come from Earls, having had to replace the old rigid completely with flexi (the old rigid end was so tight in the slave cylinder it just wouldn't undo and it got kinked during my efforts).

Hose size is -4 and needs 2 M12 x 1 male/male for each cylinder (with washers) and two female m12 -4 connectors on the ends of the hose, 1 straight, the other a 90, the hose being 950mm long

Not the cheapest way to do it but hopefully it will be for the best - just hope the master doesn't give up in sympathy with the slave!

Where are you gents getting your rebuild kits from?

I'd like to rebuild my S2 master.

Oliver

I decided to replace rather than re-build the slave - but Design911 do the kits though (£15.36 + VAT), link below:

http://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod12538 ... 29296;1492

May I ask for advice on this topic please? I have a 944S2 - 1990.
I've changed my clutch master cylinder this morning, fluid has been leaking internally into the carpet! It all came apart quiet well, but had problems bleeding due to the position of the pedal. The pedal assistor spring (coloured blue in my car) puts a good amount of pressure on the pedal which makes it push past what appears to be a "stop" plate, which is only in thin guage steel, which now allows the pedal to rise higher than the brake pedal and the top of the pedal rests against the top of the engine bay bulkhead.
After bleeding the system and getting movement of the slave and clutch arm, I've spent most of the afternoon upside-down in the footwell trying to fathom out how to stop the pedal going past it's "stop"!
Is there a diagram available of how it should look like in profile? There might have been a rubber buffer pad on the "stop" plate to prevent metal to metal contact, but there is nothing there now. If this "stop" plate has lost it's strength, any suggestions please of how to prevent the clutch pedal from travelling too far up?
I've tie-wrapped a pad of materiel to the top of the pedal and sprint to make the car driveable, but this isn't going to last very long with this arrangement. I look forward to hearing from anyone please?

Have you got a copy of either the original printed factory workshop manuals or a scan of them in PDF format which are on the internet?

They go in depth about the clutch hydraulics and the setup and adjustment of the pedal

Hello Jon,
Thanks for your response - ho-hummm it's "r.t.f.m." then (read the f.... manual), as we say in the computer trade!
I have a pdf copy of a couple of manuals, and found page 16 (para 30-1) "checking clutch play - adjusting clutch spring".
The manual advises the use of a pressure bleeder is recommended, however I think we have all the air out using the traditional 2 person "down" & "up" routine! I have had a read through it and regret I'm still non the wiser of how I get the clutch pedal to "stop" at the rest position.
As the pivot of the assist spring is not "fixed" it pushes up, which allows the pedal to go "past centre" and rest higher than it used to, and be uncomfortable to use. This results in longer pedal action, the first 2-3 inches being to bring the pedal back into it's normal position. The sketch diagram gives reference to the length of the blue spring = 55mm, which my friend backed-off to reduce the assistance pressure.
There is no mention of the thin "plate" which reaches to the end of the master cylinder push rod, but is insufficient in strength to prevent the pedal going past this possible "stop" position.
When the pedal is depressed, the clutch appears to operate as it did, and the car drives as before, but the pedal now rests too high in relation to the others.
If you have any experience or views on my dilema, I'd be pleased to hear more.

The Big Blue Spring is factory adjusted to their specs! However, I think the problem maybe that the master cylinder actuator shaft is not adjusted correctly and needs reducing in length. If you grovel in the footwell again, you will see that this shaft is threaded into a (silver metal) adjuster block and secured via a lock nut. You can loosen this nut and then wind the actuator shaft into this block, thus shortening the pedal travel. Important that you put pressure on the pedal itself whilst doing this, to make the procedure easier and ensure non damage to the threads, either by a pal treading on the pedal or if you on your own, disconnecting the pedal fulcrum pin. Wind-in until pedal level is correct - you might be left with threads visible - mine is about 4mm.

Hope this helps - Dave

Hi Dave,
I was thinking along those lines last night, however when I assembled the silver block onto the actuator rod I measured and checked it was the same as the one that came off. I guess there may be a small amount of travel in the new master cylinder before it starts to work. Oh well, another upside-down session in the footwell awaits! I'll update you on my findings, will be the weekend now as the nights draw-in and it's getting colder .........

The clutch master cylinder for the 944S2 was different to that of earlier models, as this could be as the foot pedal arrangement was redesigned. What was your purchase part number?

Dave