Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

There was a kit with all the right fittings but I can't remember who did it.
The fittings are Atec for Dash 6 PTFE braided hose M12x1.5 Black/gold part no 642.025 (fuel rail return) M16x1.5 part no 642.065 (feed line to fuel rail).
90 degree swivel hose for filter outlet 642.067 the return to tank uses a standard hose clamp fitted to existing steel pipe. It's the same bore all through same i.d as steel feed
The hose, heat shielding and pipe seperators were from Viper. Atec have an online catalogue but I got them as part of that kit from somewhere ages ago and never used them.
The metal pipe clamps were replaced with later plastic ones and the rubber sandwich was cut to leave the small bore either side for the brake line/blank.
The difficult part was the bit over the torsion tube, that was prised away with a breaker bar and not replaced.
Do not use braided nitrile it's too thick and porous, more flexible but uses different fittings. I got 10 meters of pipe which was more than enough all in cost about £300 for parts. Local guy charged me £160 for 3 hrs which I reckon is a bargain. He's done one before and one of the best mechanics I've found.

Today I began my winter work on the 944 Turbo, carried the oil filled radiator into the garage I purchased from Amazon a couple of years ago when the central heating failed and closed the garage door behind me

I've got a whole list of work to keep me busy throughout the colder months and wanted to start by cleaning up the rear lift points and trailing arm mount.

Planning on de-rusting and painting the rear lift points first then moving the axle stands from the trailing arms, removing the rear suspension completely and then cleaning up the trailing arm mounts plus any other bits that need attention after removing the suspension.

Will be using U-POL degreaser, Bilt Hamber Deox-Gel, Hydrate 80, a good quality primer and top coat such as the Eastwood Extreme Chassis Paint.

So this is what the rear lift points looked like prior to me starting...



After a couple of hours with a chisel and hammer I'd removed most of the rust scale and the metal beneath seems to be solid, but I'm having a right job trying to get any wire brush drill attachments into the areas as it is very small.



One side looks a lot better than the other but I've only wire brushed the cleaner side (right / off-side).

You might have noticed I removed the lift point extension bars which I believe are fitted to the S2 / Turbo (and possibly 968?) due to the extra clearance required when the plastic sill covers are installed. Either they have been replaced at some point during 30 years or they have survived pretty well considering they are right in front of the rear wheel! I was expecting these to be a real bugger to remove but after tapping them with a hammer and punch a few times they came out with the aid of a pair of vice grips and lots of wiggling (after removing the retaining bolt with the aid of a mini hacksaw).





Still need to tidy it up more before the Deox-Gel gets applied, I welcome any criticism or helpful comments

I have used PoR15 on the battery tray and some other areas with good results. It's incredibly hard when dry and will set solid in the tin so get small sizes, dear though.

Rear jacking points looking a lot better - I've done a single treatment of Deox-Gel so far. Too busy this week but planning on a second treatment of Deox-Gel later on in the week, will then assess the metal to see if it is ready for the Electrox primer or need a third treatment. I emailed Bilt Hamber and got some advice from Pete Hamber who said that using Deox-Gel + Electrox is preferred vs using the Hydrate-80 product.

Purchased a new toy to get into the tight spots, a Black and Decker power file, did an awesome job at removing some of the heavier rust where I couldn't get to it with a wire brush (also my emergency radiator to keep me warm in the garage).





I took more of the sealant off following this picture to make a more uniform area that would be easier to work with.



Left the Deox-Gel for 48 hours (Saturday to Monday), you might notice the blue paper towels, it occurred to me that I needed something to hold the gel against the worst bits up inside the gaps, so I rolled a few sheets of workshop towels in gel to get them completely soaked thru and stuffed them into the gaps (after brushing gel onto the bare metal).



Wire-brushed, washed, rinsed and dried with heat gun.

Re fitted engine under tray and fixed piece of wood between the plastic tray and aluminium crossmember so that I could continue to Jack up car at front using crossmember with tray in place.

MOT Day..! And a Pass, of course..

Looking good - congratulations



Interesting - but I'm with you on having to remove the cover each time I want to jack the car up from the crossmember!

Classy cable tie repair

Used Araldite on mine worked great, also fixed the rear timing belt cover with it as someone had decided to break it into two pieces instead of removing it correctly during a previous belt change...

I thought about Araldite (and coincidentally I’ve just bought some of that clear Araldite, they say you should use to fix your cracked or damaged front fog lights) but decided that as it was that oily type flexible plastic it wouldn’t work. Next time I take it off I’ll have a go.
As Waylander has observed on another thread, maybe I’m just too fond of cable ties
Thanks.
Brett and Sam.

Nothing to do with me

Best fix is plastic welding or new, the plastic biodegrades over time, any fix will be a bit temporary

Very nice car!!

Thanks I bloody love it..

993 gone?

Gone, a year ago now..

Have done quite a bit of work on this 968 since, link to my Blog below if you fancy a read..!