Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

quote="Crank Case"]Not too stiff I hope?[/quote]

Me or the car?

I ache like anything & think I might take up yoga to help with the flexibility required to work on a car. Or I’m just too old and out of condition!

Can’t tell you about the car - it got moved 10 feet back into the garage and away for the night as it was quite late by the time we were done

Yes and the telephone support, invoice is in the post

You never charged me!

Today I has been mowstly pulling out the instrument cluster (no pickled onions were involved in the making of this thread).

New odometer gear arrived. Fitted it. Didn't work. Examined the replacement of the old one closely. It was damaged.
The last time I did this, it took 6 miles or so for it to suddenly come to life. So I took the car a blast and the dash was replete with warning lights including a brake light upon my return. Took the rear light covers off and laid them down with the seats folded down so I could see exactly what was happening and both brake lights were A1.

?

Fiddled with the block connectors and low and behold (this is the short story). reconnected block C (RHS lower), warning lights gone.
However, not convinced , I swapped everything on to an old cluster including speedo. Nada. No Odometer and not a lot else either. So the logic being that perhaps the circuitry is okay but the speedo/odometer is dicky and what's going through my mind is turning the old cluster 131k dial to 157k manually... or could I use a drill or... but then the light bulb moment: Given the mechanics of the odometer seemed to be good, why don't I swap the 151k odometer over (with new gear, what a faff) on to the 131k speedometer as that might be okay so that I won't have to do any 'forwarding'. ...and it was.
Bingo!
But I suspect that the warning light issue may rear it's ugly head and I will be forced to get another cluster. I suspect I will because when I accidentally moved that large resistor on the RHS (looking at it from the front), the voltameter flickered and the oil pressure gauge still reads 4 bar when warm (5 when cold). So I can presume that is the end of the cluster and it is giving up the ghost.

To add to this (never ending story), I got a seat belt warning light* after noticing the bulb was gone* and... brake pad sensor warning light!
Though I got rid of the brake pad sensors because I found them to be a PITA. Also, I can see the damn pads. I may re-instate them one day. I noticed Ridex one's at Autodoc are well priced. I closed the circuit on all 4 wheels and the sensor light went out with that long ago but has now jumped into life, which I suspect, is all part of the dicky cluster conundrum (or potholes rattling a crimp off).

*I changed all the bulbs long ago?!
**When I first pulled the seats out to sort the electrics after just buying the car, the two pin (Mercedes stamped) connector was chopped off. I soldered an identical connector back on and always wondered why I never got the seatbelt warning light.

Odd goings on.

Special thanks to Waylander for the telephone technical support on the 968n strut install - I forgot to mention this. In my defence, it was a very long day and I really wasn't with it fully when I was posting

As I understand it, the brake pad wear sensors create an earth fault which turns on the wear light when activated. Would the fact that the light has now come on suggest you have an earth fault within that loop even though you have no sensors installed? Corroded cable shorting? Damaged insulation/heat shrink perhaps? I know you said you had previously been through all the earth points but could one of them have got all furry again?

Possibly. I haven't investigated it yet. There was no light today. I think therefore, the dodgy cluster is the culprit. The to do list gets longer. Overall, the cables in the car are pretty good. I have only come across 2 'bad' wires: left hand wing repeater showing 12v but insufficient amps and the same for the lower driving/parking lamps. Both solved by replacing the wire all the way back to either the fuse box or as in the case of the driving lamps, the section most exposed. The left repeater was a complete PITA. I often use a test bulb instead of a multi meter and then you can see how bright or not it is.

I did a jolly 147 mile loop with no untoward warning lights, oil pressure good throughout and the temperature gauge sat just above the 2nd notch and never budged. Odometer worked fine... this is all temporary. I cursed it to death yesterday as I can no longer forgive it for being 35 years old, neglected and abused after all I have done to her. Seems like coercion is the way forward.

Monday - stripped both doors to:
Attach window scraper rubbers with clips
Sort dodgy RHS microswitch/micro switch operation
Replace repaired drop link on LHS door...

I elected to remove the windows and the window runners to get good access. I discovered that the right hand door handle key barrel was incorrectly orientated so that the nodule that strikes the microswitch caused a repeat - solenoid outward and then inward on the same key rotation. Then a sudden stop in electrical operation. But not after anticipating this and having ordered (a rather good one) from the US. It's okay, I now have a spare. The cover plate for the microswitch cable had come off and... wait for it - I actually found that little screw in the pile of junk at the bottom of the door. 12 hours later (sometime on Tuesday)... I now have fully functioning central locking and the key centralises on both barrels as they should. My left hand drop link repair held up but I knew it was only temporary and these things sit in the back of your mind and play with you. Given that the handles are such a faff, the replacement went in anyway.

So, the central locking works and now, the seatbelt light goes off when I clip the seat belt in!

Sourced a front o/s wing from Germany. I can provide the email address for metal panel stuff. The wing looks great. Dunno what customs may charge me... but euros 453 incl. postage.

Also sourced some Linen vinyl for the front seat repair which will then have to get sent to south Wales! Anyone going in that direction?

Wednesday: Drove to Dundee and drove back in a BMW e60 M535d, facelift. Don't worry, I have already started the process of de-drugdealerisation...

"Wednesday: Drove to Dundee and drove back in a BMW e60 M535d, facelift. " New DD?

Today, I spent a couple of hours destroying Dremel brass brushes and getting rid of as much 'white fur' corrosion from all the nooks and crannies in the Torque tube to transaxle mounting flange- ooer missus!

Quite enjoyable making clouds of dust and seeing decent metal emerge, even if a tad slow. I've ordered another 20 brushes to do the same to the transaxle! Can't paint the TT flange yet as the preferred paint is out of stock!

Jet laq?

[Yesterday] Bad starting... lumpy until warm. Smokey... here we go.

After a bit of head scratching, and some research (that's 'research' not 'reesearch': those across the pond need educashion after who they voted for), I traced the problem to the speed sensor. And yes, fine across terminals 8 and 27 (IIRC) and way of the resistance scale for 8 and 23.

Ordered an NGK one which I hope will be the correct size. Far cheaper than the Bosch alternatives and if NGK are good enough for Honda engines then, it should be fine. I've never had any issues with NGK products.

Not tried the jet laq before- Ill give that a go on the parts that have been aqua blasted to help preserve the finish.

The plan is to use some Eastwood Aluma blast on the other bits as they are really not in great shape.




Hope you can get this sorted and continue to enjoy the car.

Yes. Well; I have a n/s front wing which I got over a year ago. Belonged to a retired scrappy who had it 'hanging' in his garage for the 'last twenty years' and it's so clean. I have an o/s wing coming from Germany which looked A1. So that means it will go into the bodyshop sometime in the new year. The front seat is going off to Wales to have new bolster panels stitched in after having sourced 'Linen' vinyl from the US of all places. Partworks 924 had none in stock!

I am going to have to get a flywheel and do that mammoth job again... I ought to source a few new intake hoses - incl. J pipe to Aux air valve, aux air valve to manifold and after all that, hopefully, i'll be servicing and minor tinkering.

But overall, big things in store for the 944.

Jetlaq is quietly effective. That's the only way I can describe it. It's easy to use and you don't have to mask up as any over spray is virtually invisible. It's nothing like clear coat.
The only downside is that you could easily cover everything you see for shitz n giggles 'cos it will do it's job.

This long journey goes on...

Bought flywheel. Fitted it. But oh no, that wouldn't make for much of a post.

Wednesday: Gearbox off (with the aid of a floor scissor jack I bought specifically for this) in 2 hrs 38mins. Less than 2 hours later, flywheel off.

I felt like superman or in the words of Johannes (Greasy fingers); gods own mechanic.

I felt that way until I started putting it back together. Painstakingly making sure of torque settings and using threadlock where applicable.
I also found a rattle which has eluded me for I don't know how long: it was the pin that holds the section of handbrake cable to the offside knocking against that strange aluminium cross brace. I removed the pin easily but getting it back together (under tension) threw the schedule by an hour and a half.

Everything seemed to fight with me but I got there and at 10.15 pm last night, drove it up and down my short drive (had a beer or two with dinner so couldn't take it on the road) and it feels great. All that clutch judder had affected many nuts and bolts throughout the transmission. Now it's all back together and tight.

With the clutch housing off, I managed to gap the NGK speed sensor using a crush washer on the M6 bolt hole, which was duly crushed incrementally with a hammer. As the NGK sensor was a fraction longer. This works. Leaves a slight headache for future gapping but if I was to buy an NGK sensor for the reference sensor, I wouldn't have to do that.

Cannot take it for a cruise today as the road at the bottom of my drive is a river. Boo! All that work and no play.

Had a good, clutch judder free jolly on Sunday but as I came back, hit the brakes and heard 'shh' every time I touched the pedal. Air noises in the cabin... Here we go. Servo. The pig of the job that is the Servo (or so I have heard).

I extracted it in just over an hour. It's a good job I am flexible. The 3 bolts holding it on requiring a mix of a UJ coupler, a deep socket, a short ratchet extension and some cussing and swearing.

New one coming from Latvia (apparently). Didn't really want to go second hand. It's an ATE unit and it's common to some other models.

https://cars245.co.uk/item/ate-03775057 ... e-booster/

Out of stock everywhere bar MI Performance or cars245.

There was an alternative. The brake booster for a VW Transporter (?) is the same bar the coupling rod which is fixed rather than original which has a threaded bar. Part numbers are very similar but I didn't know if it would fit and without the threaded push rod, I didn't know if I would end up with play between the rod and pedal bar, so I went for the above. (The alternative is cheaper and easier to source and I wonder if anyone has successfully managed to fir it?). Can't find the link at the moment.

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That aside. Sourced an instrument cluster and in anticipation of it's arrival, revamped an old binnacle.

I used: Chrome spray, dolls house mirror glass, high viscosity cyanoacrylate, alu foil and touch up paint.

First, remove prisms with a soldering iron and then I polished them with a cotton wheel on my dizzy and fine rubbing compound. I also did the front lens:



Chrome paint, including tunnels:





Then cut the dolls house mirror glass to fit after reattaching the prisms. Much more reflective than alu tape/foil and easier to use. This is the slightly more expensive, thicker stuff. I glued just the edges:



Then used foil and thick touch up paint to seal the edges of the foil (superglue can get brittle over time):



...now await the cluster to shift odometer over and clean up all the light fittings etc etc. 3 non-canbus LED's came today for the main illumination lights. Didn't want any heat. Cross fingers.