Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

Last few days iv been getting a sticking clutch, a few times it's a slight delay and a popping noise. A few times iv had 2 free it by hooking my toes under it.

Any ideas off causes?

Thanks

Many threads about this Terry. Slave or master cylinder failure or the flexi pipe off the master cylinder giving up and expanding all known to cause your issue. Check your clutch fluid level to see if you have lost any. The slave cylinder at fault will most probably make your floor wet around the pedals.

May just need bled but more likely you have an issue.

It's almost certainly a hydraulic issue around the components I have named. None of them cost a fortune is the good news.

Stuart

I think you meant the master cylinder will make the floor wet, mine didn't though.

Rich

Slave, Master or flexi or hard pipe. Mine has turned out to be a microscopic crack in the hard pipe hidden behind the bell housing. This was after changing the slave & master cylinders at a cost of around £190ish

Thanks, will take a look at the fuild levels and investage Friday. Once it's operating fine seems 2 stay that way.

If its only intermittent at the mo then you may not see much drop in the fluid level yet.
If you can get under it look at the slave (over the starter motor) and see if that is wet.
Problem with this is once you start you end up changing all of it except maybe the hard pipe so may as well pitch in do it all at once - slave, master and flexi pipe.

Car drove fin last night then this moring, started with a dry scraping noise, then the clutch pedal just stoped coming back up, this lasted 4 about 20 miles/ 40 min drive. Lots off gear changing. It comes up a very slight bit anoth 2 engage the revs. The rest I have 2 flick back up, I checked the fuild level which is about half. So there been no major fuild lost. Carpet in the driver side and around the pedals is dry. There seems 2 be a slight damp/moister at the top off the rubber hose 2 the clucth bottle, but nothing heavy. Could just need a little nip up? What can this rubber hose be replaced with? High pressure line? Or can I cut down and re fit with new clamp? There's some rotation at the joint between the 1st rubber hose and the black thing below looks normal/dry ( master cylinder or slave ) the main rubber hose which fitted 2 the back off the engine looks fine as well.

Should I top up or replace all fuild and with what?

Thanks

Sounds to me like slave cylinder beginning to go. If the slave leaks then the fluid disappears inside the bellhousing & gets evaporated off. My slave went this way.
The hose you are talking about is under no pressure it just transports fluid to the master. I replaced mine with fuel pipe as mine looked scruffy but that won't be the cause of your problem. I possibly have a good s/h slave here as I replaced mine before I knew it was the pipe grrrrr....

Thanks jim, think are get a new one from euro car parts tonight as I can then try and fit it tmw. Plus I can stick it on the credit card. Is this possible from the ground? Axle stands? Is there anything else required? Should I replace the master as well?

Thanks. Any tips or how 2 would be appreciated.

OK having done this more than a few times recently I can do it in my sleep.....

Jack the back of the car up as high as possible & put axle stands under it. Disconnect the battery! If yours is like mine the bolts & union will be FT so, 19mm combination spanner to get the starter off, a socket & ratchet fit one bolt but not tother. Keep the bolts in order there is a long one & a short one. Lay starter on exhaust out of the way. BEFORE you loosen the slave loosen the union on the hard pipe with a 12mm flare spanner, I doubt you'll undo it with a normal O/E spanner. once loose. Then undo slave with 13mm socket & a combination spanner. remove & replace slave. Before you tighten slave check the bleed nipple is at a sensible torque, (7mm combination not in most sets). Once slave tightened check reservoir not full of clag & crap, if it is remove & clean. Bleed clutch through using new fluid & pipe, check you have decent travel on the fork by feeling with finger before replacing starter. Drop car & road test.

Thanks jim

Well I ordered from euros 60ish each plus vat. Just 2 add that the car drove home fine in hotter traffic. Was a bit noisy sort off like a scraping noise. Could it be a spring or some round the pedals? With the engine off the clucth on creaks even more when moved left 2 right, so this could be the noise? But what about the lack off return this morning. Is the creaking a result off highdrlic failure? More load on the pedal?

What's a flare spanner? And combination spanner. While underthere is there anything else worth doing? Like clean the contacts on the main ground strap. I will also replace the master as well, thought that MIT as well change the fuild and didn't want any old fuild mixing with what ever was in the master? Not sure if my understand is correct MIT be totally unnessery.

Is it worth fitting braided clutch line? And new hose from the revsouier ?

Is there any change 2 that process now I'm remove the master? Is the master the lump below the revouver?

Many thanks

Terry, 5 seconds on Google would have shown you. The first is combination & the second is flare. Flare spanners are used on pipe fittings as they support more of the nut as they undo, with an open ended spanner you'll round the hex off. All of the bolts on mine were very very tight indeed.

You cannot braid the clutch pipe easily I tried, it is a weird size. 11mm unions & strange pipe size, I suspect Goodridge would be able to but I gave up in the end & ordered the hard pipe from OPC. I changed the hose from the reservoir because mine was manky, I used fuel pipe as I said. If the reservoir is full of dirty fluid pop it off & clean it. You don't need to change the master to do it.

Thanks jim

I thought that was what a combation spanner was, open and ringed. Are get one off the flare spanners, never seen them b4. Or are cut a ring spanner.

The clutch fuild is quite black in the small reservoir. am I right in thinking that the brake and clutch fuild are the same type. And should be a light clear green/White colour? Do they both run off the main Brake fuild reservoir Just I looked on Clarks garage and it tells you 2 attach a pipe 2 the brake reservoir " Install blue hose to brake fluid reservoir. Be careful not to over-tighten and break the plastic nipple. "

Thanks 4 your time.

Thanks jim

I thought that was what a combation spanner was, open and ringed. Are get one off the flare spanners, never seen them b4. Or are cut a ring spanner. Is a flexie head better, do you lose force when trying 2 undo something tight?

The clutch fuild is quite black in the small reservoir. am I right in thinking that the brake and clutch fuild are the same type. And should be a light clear green/White colour? Do they both run off the main Brake fuild reservoir Just I looked on Clarks garage and it tells you 2 attach a pipe 2 the brake reservoir " Install blue hose to brake fluid reservoir. Be careful not to over-tighten and break the plastic nipple. "

Braided lines I think there all ready made up 4 sale on eBay.

Thanks 4 your time.

I actually bought a flexi head flare spanner this time from fleabay as I lost my 12mm from the Halfords set when I was doing the master swap. They are available from most motor factors. Worth getting a 7mm combination spanner as well it makes bleeding the slave a lot easier.
Err brake & clutch reservoirs are completely separate on all 944s. The clutch one is the small round whitish pot around 70mm or so & just above the clutch master. Clutch & brake fluid the same, always use fresh stuff as it absorbs water & eventually rusts out the cylinder.