Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

Other then don't bother? I had 2 cracks in my rear bumper from idiots who can't drive or don't care. Iv made all the repires using chemical metal and body filler. Iv sanded back everything starting with 240 wet, and worked my way up 2 320/600/800/1000 I didn't use any primer and went one with the paint code colour in a can. It's black pearl, so not going 2 be easy. Built up a few coats and cut back with 1200 and filled anything I had missed or could now see.

Tmw I was going 2 put the last few coats on. I'm hoping I can get away without using clear coat as I will evently get it repainted profesenly. I'm figuring the bumper once dirty lol will look better then it dose with a hole in it.

I understand I will need 2 flat and polish the job at the end 2 get any chance off a gloss shine. Can I use t cut? Or a cutting compand

Warm the can in a pot of hottish water, warm whatever you are spraying using a fan heater or hair dryer. Shake the can well & keep it in the hot water until you are just about to use it. Get enough paint on, I normally spray 3-4 thin coats and allow to dry & then the same again.

Great tip jim, paint is settle much more even and shiny. Just kicking myself 4 not using pimer, as I'm on my 3rd can of paint now, keep needing 2 cut back over the silghtish filler.

Great tip jim, paint is settle much more even and shiny. Just kicking myself 4 not using pimer, as I'm on my 3rd can of paint now, keep needing 2 cut back over the silghtish filler.

Finsh isn't as great as I like but I guess I knew that from the start, wishing I had used primer 1st as it would off give a better coverage over the filler. I tryed 2 get some off the slight dips out between coats with filler, but it won't blend. Iv sanded it back wet and dry using 1200 till u can see it or feel it when wet or dry, yet it's still showing on the final coat.

The 2 larger repires have came out well so it will just be acase off the body shop sanding priming and painting.

Sand it down, do a coat of primer then go back to the top coat.
Otherwise it will haunt you every time you see it.

I did some repair work on my wheel arches (Article in this months All Torque) and resparyed it with regular cans off the shelf.
You can see that it has been done but you have to look very closely at it with a keen eye.

Like you I plan on having it professionally finished at a later date when the budget allows it.

Always use a primer though. That is key.

Unfortunately black is by far the worst colour for showing every little mark. You are using a sanding block or board aren't you? I normally use a primer filler after treating the base metal with zinc or something similar. I'd use grey primer then guide coat with black to ensure it is 100% before starting spraying.

For so many resons, I knew I wouldn't get the finished I would be content with. I had one can just 2 repire the front bumber, which is covered in stone chips and split paint from the front sPoiler coming in contact with the ground a few times. The front bumper was cracked and spilt paint around the toe eye and number Plate. So quite an out off the way place and a quick job would look better then the damge. I repaired it fairly well, and did a few other bits will the bumper was off and in-between filler coats e.c.t

I had some paint left over and a job I was ment 2 start was delayed so I thought r try the rear bumper, there was a large crack down the center under neath. Number plate marks along the face and a post mark in the top right( done by myself )

I though if I don't sand top deep the paint will be thick anoth 2 get most marks out and a light coat on top 2 finsh. I repaired the crack and post mark with chemical metal as it set quicker and then sanded down and scammed with filler. I used the remains off one can and everything look ok, no real filler marks but I needed another can. It started raining last night so I left the final coat till today. But I attacked the bumper 4 impections with filler. And worked it down till 1200 couldn't be seen, now I know if I used primer I could off block out the filler and had no worrys, by been on a bugget and the tins off paint were £7 each at 300ml I didn't want 2 spend any more, I think I could get it redone 4 a £100 from the paint shop so any more I spend is eating in 2 that.

Wrong! Should off got some primer as now it need another can and is still not bearable considering the time I spent. If I got primer 1st time round would off been cheaper then the 3 cans used. So im feeling very grumpy lol.

Had some lacquer left from something else, so I let the final coat dry in the sun 4 20mins then shade 4 about hour a half. Went over it all with some fine wire wool till mat, as it black pearl paint. Then lacquered. So far it's not looking 2 bad. If I had primered it I MIT not need 2 go 2 the body shop!

Iv painted many bikes and parts and my old rear hoop spoiler but trying 2 match the glass like finsh from the body shop I didn't think was feasible before I started.

Polished up the lacquer with some auto glum
Deep black, came up a good match, used a rubbing compand on the other side and some black t cut, came out a differnt black,

I was quite happy with the colour match on the good side so iv started all over again this time with primer. Will leave it days in between coats 2 cure. Hopefully it won't need the body shop.

Terry, love Auto Glum
It is MUCH TOO EARLY to cut it back! It needs at least 2-3 days to go hard better 5-7 days. I then rub back with 1000 then 1500 then 2000 with soap as a lubricant. At that point you shouldn't need much cutting, very often Auto Glym Super Resin Polish is enough. Make sure you wax it after as polish is porous.

Ok, thanks, I knew it was early but I sorted off just wanted it half presentable. Then relised with some more time and correct aproch the bumper could be left painted by me.

Thanks Jim 4 all ur feed back. It's primered and back on the car ready 4 work tmw.
I used fine wire wool before laquer, as I didn't have anything less then 1200. Would 2000 sandpaper work much better?

Yup I normally step through from 1000 to 1500 & sometimes 2000. It depends on what it looks like, it is essential to let it harden though.
Worth finding an auto paint supplier locally they'll be much cheaper & will also fill aerosols if needed.

I would like 2 get a gun, the comperser would be use full 4 many other things. Is there a set type? Power spray range e.c.t?

Foam paint rollers are a better alternative to spray cans. At least you can use real paint. With enough prep & finishing off the results can be quite acceptable. Know a guy who used to do whole cars that way! Hate spray cans. Most seem to be filled with something more like dye!

Thinking about getting a compersser, spray gun. Halfords paint, mix is thin and runs easy. got a few wings and head light lids 2 practice on. Gona do my own sills if it turns out well.

The big issue is getting a big enough compressor for home use, 3hp is a maximum on a 13Amp plug & that will give around 9-10CFM FAD (Free air displacement). This is marginal on a decent size spray gun. What I'd look at is a HVLP system which makes a lot better effort at spraying but won't run air tools.
Loads here http://www.hvlpshop.co.uk/ The Earlex systems are good.

I've been painting on & off for years with everything from rattle cans to full blown pro compressor systems. The big gear is great but massive expense for occasional use, rattle cans are fine, I've done whole cars with them but they're expensive to do big areas & although you can get a good finish it is a lot of time & hard work.