What did you do to your 924/944/968 today?

benjj · **Posted:** Wed Feb 13, 2013 10:35 am

Am in the process of turning my early 944 from weekend toy to daily driver. I've ordered some parts from JMG so they'll be going on shortly.

Also just had 4 spanking new Yokohama W Drive winter tyres fitted this morning, just in time for the snowmageddon that has just arrived as I type :shock:

Endoman · **Posted:** Fri Feb 15, 2013 5:55 pm

New motor in and running, sounds sweet. Then stopped idling and was hunting on part throttle. After much farting about traced to stuck ISV, what a fiddle to replace. Now the oil pressure is off the scale. Stuck blow off valve?

scam75 · **Posted:** Sat Feb 16, 2013 11:42 am

2 new Toyo T1S's on the front this morning replacing my Conti Sport Contacts that had reached the wear indicators! See how long these last as I chewed a set of front T1R's quick smart last year with a tracking problem. Oops! Thankfully that seems resolved and the Conti's had worn nice and even.

Stuart

jmgarage · **Posted:** Sat Feb 16, 2013 1:29 pm

Endoman wrote:

New motor in and running, sounds sweet. Then stopped idling and was hunting on part throttle. After much farting about traced to stuck ISV, what a fiddle to replace. Now the oil pressure is off the scale. Stuck blow off valve?

If its pegged at the top, its probably the sender under the oil filter pointing towards the wheel... jack the car up, remove the drivers side front wheel and you will see a round end to a cylindrical sender with two wires on it.. you almost certainly have on that has gone bad.. they often do that after being used and then left dry for a while.

Endoman · **Posted:** Sat Feb 16, 2013 9:01 pm

Sounds like the same problem that occurred with the ICV/ISV, motor not run for months out in horrible weather. The gauge goes right up to the needle stop and stays there. Switch off and it drops instantly, ignition on and its zero till you fire up. Does the oil pressure electrical circuit not complete until the engine is running?
My mechanic thought the idle problem was caused by the MAF and altered the spring tension. (thinks, you shouldn't be going this) so original setting was not marked and is now going to be a major and probably expensive problem. :shock:

kongsodoken · **Posted:** Sat Feb 16, 2013 9:42 pm

Removed exhaust and rear beam, the transmisson and Torque tube tomorrow

noticed I have a leak from the shift linkage seal, it it just a case of pulling it out and replacing ...any tips welcomed

all other gear box seals are good ...do I replace just incase or "if it ain't broke don't fix it" :shock:

benjj · **Posted:** Sun Feb 17, 2013 1:51 pm

I've been a busy little beaver this morning:

Changes both door scraper rubbers.
Changed washer reservoir
Changed washer motor
2 new relays
Tyre pressures
Sunroof drain holes
Changed passenger window motor -

Now I'm going to treat myself to a 50 mile A-Road blast to my favourite bacon sandwich purveyor. Then back again.

lewrot · **Posted:** Sun Feb 17, 2013 3:38 pm

Finished putting the rest of the interior in today. It is now a complete car again. If any one is interested it is in the car for sale section. Look for the 1986 924A Kent advert.

Endoman · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2013 7:01 pm

Spent all afternoon changing the Oil pressure sender only to find someone had reversed the terminals. Should have checked it first so two idiots.

kongsodoken · **Posted:** Mon Feb 25, 2013 4:56 pm

dropped the rear beam and gearbox and found

Rusty fuel lines

rottern suspension mounts

Knackered gearbox mount

and most worring creaks in the torque tube

these are definite cracks but do not go though to the other side they look worste than in the photo.....does it need changing?

jmgarage · **Posted:** Mon Feb 25, 2013 5:45 pm

Having watched the rest of your build, it might be worth swapping it out for a torque tube that has been remanufactured with some new bearings and... some nice fresh black powder coating and bead blasted aluminium bits.

Then at least your car is going to look as good from under it as it does looking at the body.. or the interior..

I actually bet you also have the nicest looking tool roll as well!

kongsodoken · **Posted:** Mon Feb 25, 2013 8:21 pm

jmgarage wrote:

Having watched the rest of your build, it might be worth swapping it out for a torque tube that has been remanufactured with some new bearings and... some nice fresh black powder coating and bead blasted aluminium bits.

I was going to do it myself and have splashed out on some SUPER

bearing's

jmgarage wrote:

I actually bet you also have the nicest looking tool roll as well!

NO the opposite, I'm a total nightmare spend 1/2 the time looking for the tool I need......at work my desk is a complete mess :lol:

but genius and inovation can only be born out of chaos. :lol:

But seriously the cracks are on the inside only they don't go through as far as I can tell.....is this common? I've seen a few threads in the US with the same issue

simkin911 · **Posted:** Mon Feb 25, 2013 8:30 pm

Have you priced those suspension mounts yet? Not funny. :cry:

kongsodoken · **Posted:** Mon Feb 25, 2013 8:51 pm

simkin911 wrote:

Have you priced those suspension mounts yet? Not funny. :cry:

that one isn't to bad £45 each it's the other one at £150 each thats the problem!

And if you think that's bad i've just purchased new spring plates

nicksonmsport · **Posted:** Mon Feb 25, 2013 11:12 pm

yeah those rear rubber mounts on the back are pretty pricey!

ken, where did u get the torque tube bearings? my tube is going off for blasting and powdercoating soon, so will be rebuilding at the same time.

cheers

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