Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

Immobiliser not allowing the car to crank depends on the version

The tacho bounce confirms the crank position sensor is working, this needs to send 200 rpm to switch the fuel pump on via the ecu

If you forget to press the key fob into the immobiliser, it does not crank.

Sounds like it’s working correctly

Painted the steel water pipe.
And lost a rather larger washer as it was being subjected to the wire wheel on the bench grinder Can I find the bloody thing? Nope, nada, gone! Disappeared into a fold in the space/time continuum only to re-appear after a replacement has been purchased and delivered.

I have a large collection of washers, perhaps you could put a vernier caliper to it and I may furnish you with it. It might even be original.

Started the garage so I can finally finish the car

^ Green with envy. I have planning permission for a garage but C19 put the stops on that

Very tasty and tidy. Just needs a lift and some Page3 calenders.
My very untidy garage but it does have a lift. Best thing I've ever bought.

Temp sender and gauge fitted, wiring sheathed with heat resistent sleeving. made the mistake of getting a Fahrenheight gauge.
Gearbox bits ready to go to transmission shop recommended by Paul Livesey so should be good.

Yesterday I fitted a new throttle cable and then spent several hours in the most uncomfortable position I could find trying to fathom why there was so much slack in the cable... In the end I worked out that the metal "stop" on the back of the pedal mechanism frame was slightly bent and allowing the pedal to return to a resting position further than it should. Managed to get a pair of channel lock pliers to fit on to it after removing the pedal arm completely and bend it back to shape. I was then able to adjust the new throttle cable with minimal slack happy days finished the job by adjusting the throttle stop plastic bolt so that it will prevent cable stretch.

Also the protective nipple / cap on the end of the throttle cable is an absolute b**** to remove and reattach so you can slot the cable on to the inlet manifold bracket.

Today I set about investigating the cause of my exhaust fumes issue in the cabin - before anyone makes suggestions I've already done the following -

• Replaced sunroof seals (genuine)
• Replaced rear hatch seal (ebay)
• Resealed tail-lights to body using neoprene gasket
• New hatch lock seal
• Sealed holes in rear cubbies and wheel well with correct grommets
• Sealed any other holes (number plate screws) with gaffer tape
• Replaced bonnet seal (genuine)

I tested the rear hatch seal using a piece of A4 paper at various points around the seal to make sure there was no significant gap when the hatch was closed, I also inspected the edge with a torch whilst the hatch was closed (you can see the seal compressed between the hatch and body). Noticed one small area above the exhaust wasn't compressed as well as the rest so massaged the seal slightly and re-checked fitment.

I then checked the gear stick gaiter and inner boot and found the inner boot has several holes so have ordered a new replacement in case the fumes are coming from the centre tunnel.

I then checked the fitment of the bonnet seal again using a piece of A4 paper to check for any significant gap between the bonnet and the seal.

Then I grabbed my can of Dynax S50 anti-corrosion wax and gave both rear cubbies (battery removed) and the inside of both outer sills a good coating (something I've been meaning to do for ages).

I've added checking / testing / bypass of the catalytic convertor to my list of jobs as I've noticed that the engine bay is very hot after going on a drive (coolant temps stay within the safe region) also wondering if the fumes could be symptoms of cat failure and getting intermittent power loss. That will be a job for the winter possibly as I can also get the following jobs done at the same time -

• Injectors cleaned
• Turbo reconditioned / replaced

Did you find a way to get the damn bulkhead grommet to go in/stay in place?!

That was the easiest part of the whole install?

The white plastic plug should be out of the rubber grommet, I then smeared vaseline all over my rubber and shoved it in the hole and used both thumbs to firmly press it into place

Then just push the white plastic plug into the grommet - job done

Be very careful though with the clutch fluid reservoir as the hose sits right next to the bulkhead hole.

Well, talking of uncomfortable. was fitting a new throttle pedal - trying to get the bolts to line up through the chassis. If only my arms were 8" longer, I could have held a socket in my left and another in my right. With seat and steering wheel off, the throttle cable is a lot easier.



That's a heinous crime around here.



I must have an extra thick bulkhead/head.



No worries with that, I shifted it out of the way.

Sticking my head above the parapet again , just thought I would post up a picture of the drive wheel I have received from the Flyinghorse in the states they have had machined . Its for the gearbox oil cooler on lsd gearbox and has been NLA from Porsche for a fair while .
It enables me to get a spare AOR rebuilt . Also got these lsd spacers/discs from RacingDiffs , they also offer thinner six disc conversion to increase breaking torque .

New Fuel pump and filter and all hoses from tank to rigid fuel lines. I also got the fuel pump cover powder coated