Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

So tonight in a couple of hours I have stripped the front of the engine bay out

The rad and all the bits the front engine covers the trays and started to change all the old hoses for silicone ones blue silicone ones not sure I like it much.

Changing the belts but not pump or rollers this time but can see a seeping leak from the water pump, so that got to come off and a new gasket also the hoses go under the inlet manifold so that's coming off too

Going to be busy for the next few evenings

Also made up an injector cleaner with a PP3 battery some hose, a couple of big cans of carb cleaner should be a bit of fun

Bilstein B6 suspension all around, 968Cs lowered front springs, clear side lenses and VDO 52mm gauges fitted:

Looking very sharp

Replaced the drivers Side steering knuckle and bearing, finally the annoying little bit of play is gone.

Over the last couple of weeks replaced the air filter, plugs, ignition leads, coil, distributor cap and rotor arm on my 944 S2 and that made the car feel much more "on its toes" / lively, I can only assume the old coil, leads, dist cap etc were somewhat past their sell be date.

Also whilst the car was in having some underseal work done and brake judder (see older post) investigated, I had the rear gear shift linkages replaced with Only 944 parts including short shift leaver, which has much improved the gear linkage slop to almost non-existance. Much better than before for a gearbox with 153k miles on it.

However the wiper linkage arm (drivers side) has now started to just drop off/fall off the connection with the wiper arm, one step forward and another step back.

Any advice about how to fix this temporarily so I can use the car in the rain ?

I can't see how cable ties would help since the linkage arm angles / wiper movement during wiper use seems to effectively stop you just lashing things together?

Anybody used the temporary repair clips that are advertised on the web?

I'm not sure if there are bush repair kits available, or if it's better to get a new linkage arm, and if so, is the driver's side (RHD car) the "long" or "short" linkage arm?

Any advice from those who have had this problem in the past would be much appreciated.

IMG_20190525_171642283 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/149782326@N06/]

The two links are available as a spare part, long and short, the two come to about £25 from opc

The long one is fiddly to do the short one a major pain as the top has to come off the heater box

The repair clips work well

If the ball on the drivers side is worn out / rusted they can be replaced as they are a standard size, you can find them as rod link ends and just steal the ball and weld it on.

Re.: Gear linkage.

I replaced my front an intermediate with a stainless steel/nylon from JMG Porsche.
Apparently, the standard linkages last iro 22k. So buying the machined alternative means that when the car is a pile of rust, the linkage will still be A1.

Okay, wiper arm con rod.
Both short and long con rods are available from VW Heritage £14 and £17 for the short and the long respectively (plus VAT).
This won't be the cure however.

Many on here will say to buy a clip.

Well, I think that's not really curing the problem.

When tackling mine, I first had to get a wiper motor/arm frame.
This thankfully had a good ball on the off side crank arm. No point buying a con rod if it's going to pop off a deteriorated ball.
After re-assembly, the new con rod popped off.
Back to the drawing board.
I found that the shims that sit on the underside of the crank arm between the arm and the frame were so worn, this was the point of friction. Once I added a couple of wafer thin shims and lubed it up, the con rod did not pop off.

[Having a power pack is so useful when fixing these Porker malarkey problems]

Things to note:

Removal of the wiper assembly is not difficult but necessary. For the price of 2 con rods, why not do both? You will not get access to remove the crank arms and con rods without taking it out.
It requires removal of the blower motor. Loads of screws on the blower cover, mounting points (10mm), some electrical connections and loosening the 2 x 22mm bolts that protrude through the aperture underneath the screen.
Please coat these protrusions liberally with de-blocker and allow to soak, especially if it's an aluminium frame type of wiper assembly. They can shear.
Also use some deblocker on the 16(?) self tapping screws into the blower motor cover. I replaced these screws with ss but 1 sheared beyond salvation.
A little bit of Wynn's gasket maker along that section mitigated it.

While you are in there... It gives you an opportunity to check blower motor, the Vacuum pipes that operate the air intake flaps and I did some rust treatment and painting to tidy it all up.

It's not difficult, just a PITA - time consuming. Getting 2 (correct length) crank arms with good balls for the con rod attachment will be your biggest challenge.

Removal is all there in the Clark's garage notes.

Waylander, thanks, just to check , is the driver's side arm the "long " one or the "short" one so I can estimate how much of a PITA this is going to be

Crank Case, thanks, that's a bigger job so I may go with a clip for now so I can use the car this summer /autumn and then get inside/replace/check more over the winter when I have more time with the car off the road.

Yes it is, but I have to agree with Rob no point in half a job, and just using a clip with a worn arm will increase the wear on the ball

It is a pain but an afternoon's work

It's a good job really.

Done well, peace of mind for a while and a great opportunity to clean things out/check blower flap operation/vacuum system/blower operations/wiper motor and clean up the earth points/use some electrical contact cleaner on the electrical connector blocks/remedial work on any rust/check vacuum rod linkage operation/clean out debris etc etc.
I painted the mesh on the blower intake.



Short con rod - off side.

And I changed mine for the 1993 on with pollen filters, a small adjustment to one flap and jobs a good’n

You can always drill the ball joint and stick a split pin through it - many have said this is a permanent fix, did it on mine recently but haven't any miles on the car since to say if it works well or not.

It might be a permanent fix but, I just don’t think it looks very good, new arm and a new ball look better aesthetically

and over time it will wear more and more, and a clonk will develop when the blade changes direction, just not a solution I would consider

Martin has the correct solution. However after buying 2 rods I done the old drill and split pin job and we are about 4 years down the line with no issues. If/when it f's up I'll go down Martin's route!

Stuart

I used one of these clips, been on 4 yrs