Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

Finally got round to putting my S2 up for sale on Pistonheads. Having looked at the previous MOT certs, I'm using it less and less, mainly due to severe sciatica after I do more than a 15 minute drive. I can drive the Fiat 500 for a full tank, roughly 3 hours with no ill effect, so it's definitely the Porsche, sadly.

It's too nice a car to be sitting in the garage doing nothing.

Car wash gear out today for a spruce up!

For a first run out on track after a major rebuild I'd call it a success in as much as I didn't blow it up, nothing fell off, it didn't do anything widely unpredictable, and between me and the car we managed to stay out of the kitty litter, brakes were good and showed no signs of fading.
On the downside, looks like I might have to pull the rear suspension again and reindex the T bars +200 miles on the road apparently is not enough to find its final resting position, 10mins on track and it 'settled' another 25mm and I've no adjustment left on the spring plates now. On the night I just dropped the front another 10mm to take some weight off the rear which was enough to get a few more laps in before the end of the session, but still had some tire rub when loaded up coming out of corners.

its quite amazing how much they settle down, i have been waiting 5 years and 13k miles and the ass is still miles in the air, and i have not changed the rear at all,

gets a bit lower with 10 stone of fuel in the back or my brother in the boot, but it measures out to be correct by the Manuel.

Refitted the plastic undertray having replaced a number of missing bolts with stainless versions. Replaced missing -(through corrosion) spring screw clips at the bottom of the front bumper so I could refit the batwing.
Went to refit the batwing but discovered that it needs some attention too and replacement fastenings as it doesn’t have the correct ones (or enough!)

Went over to the in-laws & after picking father-in-laws brains (he’s a retired toolmaker) came up with a plan for cutting down the front struts so I can get moving on the B6 conversion. Spent longer searching for the tools in his garage than it did to cut the pair to length

Test fitted the adapter sleeves- (all good) and dropped them and the cut down struts to my friend who is a fantastic welder to do the melting metal joinery stuff. Might get them back by the end of the week so I can get them to the powder coaters on Saturday - fingers crossed eh?

WP_20180615_018 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/149782326@N06/]

Not exactly what I did today, but, took my car across to North Wales for a few days last week.
May not seem much, but up until now I had only used the car for trips of circa 20-40 miles, so a 750 miles round trip including hacking across the country and back on the M180 and M62 was approached with some nagging doubts given the car had been stored for 10 years before I got it last year and you never know if a hose/or seal will let go when it gets good and hot on a long run.

Anyhow, apart from me noticing or starting to notice a vibration through the steering wheel when applying the brakes (seeking help/advice on this in a separate post) it all went rather well.

Practical (2 + cases/bags, etc) , comfortable (no issues with the seats / driving position) and fun GT type car. Just what I hoped the car would be. I also had several admiring comments from people we met on the way , so a great trip.

It's not concourse and is unlikely to ever be perfect, but I do enjoy driving it and want to keep it running well.

I'm no mechanic and this is more of a fettle / try and keep it running well story as opposed to major surgery / restoration but so far I have:- fixed fan speed resistors (only running fast), changed the armrest cover hinge, fixed faulty boot micro switch, changed various fluids /gearbox oil, fixed sun roof directional relay, glove box hinge/lid holder, quietened the interior temp sensor fan, had bonnet struts replaced , flexi rear fuel lines replaced, some welding /paint to lower front wings, sills and roof.

Whilst some of this has been done by mechanics/professionals, lots of the smaller stuff I have been able to do myself with all the help/guidance from this Forum , so a big thank you to you guys

There's plenty still to do i.e.:- one horn u/s, steering wheel recover, washer bottle replace, h/lamp washer pump fix, radio aerial booster fix, etc. (and the previously mentioned vibration from the brakes), but so far it's been a lot of fun and occasional frustration (as something else snaps, or you find something else wrong as you try and fix something).


thanks for all your TIPEC member help

cheers

Was at the World of Supercars event at Knockhill last Sunday and participated in the very wet Supercar track-day (not sure my car actually qualifies as a Supercar but they let me on anyway). I think I was the only person that was happy it was raining lol as it gave me probably my only ever opportunity to overtake a Lambo Aventador on a race track
I had the oldest and least advanced (by far) car out on track, with zero driver aids, yet was able to push harder and closer to the limit than all but a few. A great testament to the fundamental engineering and layout (balance) of these cars.

Hi Prophead, the car looks great. Nice photos. Mine is just a humble lux but each time I drive it I’m amazed by how well balanced it is.

BR

Matt

V8 in the poring rain, looks a fairly ugly day weather wise, car looks great

Thanks guys. Was pish weather as they say here, but still a great event with a great turn out of cars and public.

Fitted a linear throttle response cam after seeing a few good posts about them here. 5 min job if that and the car feels far nippier, love it.

I'd assumed the OEM cam was slow for driveability... now I suspect it might have been more for economy

Finally grew some courage to get the rear end up on axle stands - with that done & my fears of lifting it and it all going horribly wrong put to bed, the wheels came off, the calipers came off ready for refurbing and so did the brake discs.
I would have cracked on with replacing the rear shocks too but for the fact that I couldn’t work out where the upper shock mount was! Despite help from Waylander - (thanks again!) it remained a mystery until a picture on pelican parts revealed all. There is soo much encrusted mud under my wheelarches that the mounting bolt is completely undetectable hence why I spent part of the afternoon removing all the boot carpets and the rear seats trying to find the bloody rear shock top mount

I can’t find anything in the history file but I think someone has been here before me as the rear calipers are in much better condition than the front and are possibly not the original fitment. The front calipers have two sets of raised lines either side of the raised Porsche lettering, the rears however, have just a single line either side of a flat surface with the Porsche lettering in the form of stickers. The pad retaining plate bolts look to be stainless domed head Allen key as opposed to standard hex head bolts. The bolts for the dust shield are MIA on the passenger side but present on the drivers side. Both dust shields are also MIA
If I can get home early from work one night this week, I might be able to get the rear B6 replacements installed now I know where to undo the top-mount fingers crossed eh?

The original bolts were T27 torx, they never used hex heads to retain the pad plates

Obviously my description of the bolts location was not precise enough, but glad you found them, and the bottom bolts on the shocks will be very tight and under tension from the torsion bars, you will need to take the pressure off by jacking the hub carriers up about an inch,

The lower bolts are the only bolts on the car that were copper slipped from the factory.

Should be a 30 min job now,

My bad!
Forgot they were torx! I had nuts welded on to mine to get them out hence the confusion.

Probably take me 30 mins to scrape the mud off it’s that bad!

Before I started work on my car, I had it up on stands out in the road and jet washed the hell out of it everywhere underneath

Then it was in the dry garage for 7 weeks getting sorted, I know your progress is a little slower

But the dam good wash made life a lot easier

Got all brave last night and started the job of replacing the clutch as the knocking at biting point is getting worse and its starting to sound a bit embarrassing. Plan is to spend one hour a night on it and achieved the following in yesterdays slot:

- Exhaust and associated mounts removed
- Drive shafts\cv joints fully removed both sides
- Gear linkage disconnected (old rubber boot was trashed so needed to be cut off)
- Torque tube\gearbox coupler released and slid into gearbox (confirmed the clutch is goosed as I can rotate the torque tube quite a bit each way before hitting any resistance.)

Tonights plan is to slide the gear linkage forward and drop the box, Thursday night get the torque tube slid back then bell housing of Friday evening.

Hopefully get some extra time on it over the weekend or at least time to clean up the removed parts ready for refitting.

Only bit I'm a bit nervous about is dropping\refitting the box purely due to the weight of it...... what could possibly go wrong